Results 21 to 25 of 25
-
01-30-2008, 04:42 PM #21
I need to state this clearly, with the majority of the warped blades I have attempted to straighten, I have not had satisfactory results! Some have corrected enough to hone to a serviceable shaver. I will not sell a razor that will not perform with normal honing and stropping. It's scrapped. If a razor will only hone up correctly on nights of a full moon while you balance your hone on the edge on the shell of a albino Slovenian apple snail and strop on a strop made from the hide of the last unicorn, forget it. Sometime you have just got to suck it up and admit a blade is junk and not suitable for shaving.
Now, how I have had success with just by hand is to flex the metal in the opposite directions of the bend. I have also done the vice and dowel method. But guys, warp must be slight. If your ex-wife put your best razor in a vice and slammed it with her bowling ball, it's toast.
-
01-30-2008, 06:44 PM #22
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209
-
01-30-2008, 06:49 PM #23
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209
-
02-03-2008, 05:52 AM #24
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Rochester, MN
- Posts
- 11,552
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 3795
-
02-05-2008, 06:22 AM #25
Of all the razors I see in antique shops that look un-used, about 90% have some small warp to them. I assume that's why they look new -- because they were hard to hone and they were gotten rid of!
Most of the ones I see that are well used have been so well used that the bevel is very wide and the spine has a large flat section from all the honing.
The trick is to find an un-used vintage razor that is not warped!
E