Thread: 1500-grit wetsand backhone technique

QUICK REVIEW:
1500 grit wet sandpaper can be used to generate a bevel suitable for final finishing on a 8000 - 12000 grit stone. Additionally, coarser grits of wet sandpaper can be used if a more intensive repair is needed. The reviewer recommends the technique if a suitable waterstone is not available to accomplish the task. It is not the preferred solution but given reasonable care it does indeed work as described.




A MORE IN DEPTH REVIEW:
The following has been accomplished with a DOVO carbon steel razor and a Henckels stainless straight razor in near new condition. The reviewer can attest first-hand that if followed as described the technique will indeed work. This technique is not suitable for making an edge on a razor suitable for shaving (see 'Scary Sharp' system). Rather it is a way to inexpensively repair an edge of typical damage to the point that one can then use a polishing hone (ie Norton 8k or Kitayama 12k) to bring the edge to true straight razor sharp... 'shave ready'. In theory one could own a Kitayama 12000 grit waterstone and the materials in this review and need nothing else to accomplish basic honing and edge repair. As an added bonus the materials herein described can be used to lap (or flatten) the Kitayama stone.

The technique is this: The user very lightly backhones (stropping motion) on a chamfered, very clean, very flat, very hard object that has a very fresh piece of tensioned, very clean, very wet, 3M sandpaper on it... and that's it - nothing conceptually new here. The only item missing from the synopsis is that the 'wetness' must be provided by fresh flowing, clean water. The extensive use of 'very' above is to convey the importance and critical nature of these factors.



The photos help to explain:

- notice clean, fresh 3M 1500 grit wet sandpaper (rinse both sides before use)

- marble tile with (factory) chamfered edges (make sure the tile surface and at least one edge are perfect)

- wooden cutting board as clamp for edge of paper, and as a means to facilitate...

- the user (back)hones over the sink for a constant flow of fresh water

- marble and wooden board act together to hold the edge of sandpaper to allow...

- tension must be maintained on sandpaper while honing (left hand thumb in 2nd to last photo)

- backhone very lightly a few strokes, then examine edge

- change sheet frequently (rotate sheet once to virgin side) ...well before any glazing appears (like way before)

- before placing the razor on a new sheet (that's been applied to marble) - gently rub a wet palm over the surface to be sure it is perfect (no lumps or grit)

- examine edge frequently under proper magnification

- too much pressure will cause a wire edge ...which usually can be removed with proper technique (& perhaps also a few strokes on the next coarser grit)

- correct pressure is the same as final-final honing: nearly zero (as close to 'the weight of the blade' as is possible)

- using clean implements, wipe down and rinse everything before, after, and during use

-if takes more than a few strokes more to resolve the edge damage you may choose to go to a coarser grit wet sandpaper (i.e. 1000, 600, 400, 320). Keep in mind that after you go down in grit number of course you must come back up. The coarsest tested grit that will be honed by a finishing hone (in a reasonable amount of time) was 1500 grit. If you use 600 grit at some point, then 1500 (and preferably 1000 first) should be used before going to the finish hone.

- notice the last photo shows incorrect form - no tension on the sandpaper

- none of the photos show what properly tensioned sandpaper should look like - it should be pulled taught enough to remove any 'bubble' near the corner of marble tile (i.e. the sandpaper is held quite flat to the marble over the area around the razor). Normally the weight of the marble is enough to hold the free end of the sandpaper down to allow suitable tension. If needed apply some downward force with the left (sandpaper) hand.



For this technique to work the reviewer discovered that it is imperative that all points mentioned be strictly adhered to. As with all honing techniques, this will take a few attempts (practice) to make proper bevels reliably. Additionally, all components must be inspected prior to, and during use, for both precision and cleanliness. Think borderline surgical-clean and precise.



The reviewer welcomes any feedback.

I have been doing something similar. Using 2000 grit sand paper and a little mineral oil. It seems to get the chips out of my ebay specials. Are you useing the running water to disperce the metal shavings or to keep the paper whet, or something else?

This thread should probably be in "advanced honing."

Many guys set their bevels by honing on 1000 grit sandpaper, front-leading, and then go on to the Norton 4/8 or equivalent. This isn't that different, except that you're starting a little higher at 1500, and then you're eliminating the medium-grits, which I suppose means you're probably spending more time on the Kitayama.

What I don't yet understand is why you're back-honing, instead of going edge-leading.

Originally Posted by dylandog

What I don't yet understand is why you're back-honing, instead of going edge-leading.

My guess is normal, edge-leading honing probably cuts up the sandpaper.

Edge-leading is a lot faster, although sometimes you'll slice the paper if you're not careful.

Some guys get great results with sandpaper, and it's worth a shot to see if it works for you. I for some reason find that the sandpaper rounds the bevel just enough to make subsequent honing very difficult.

It does cut fast, though--faster even than a DMT. Sometimes I'll start a really bad razor on sandpaper before jumping to the DMT.

Josh