Thread: Creating a slurry

Martin,

I think you got me mixed up with one of the other posters. You can't beat a combo hone for $5, no siree bob.

Josh

Anyone use a DMT to create a slurry on a natural stone?

I just purchased a natural Japanese waterstone that is recommended to be used with a slurry. This was discussed with the seller as something created by a DMT type hone. I have no small cotigura or piece of this hone.

Anyone have experience doing this? I am thinking a 1200 DMT might be about right?

Originally Posted by JGS

Anyone use a DMT to create a slurry on a natural stone?

I think that would work fine, though I'd probably get the 325 or the 600. By the way www.allprotools.com sells tiny 4x1 DMTs that would be perfect for what you're talking about.

The only drawback I can imagine is excessive wear on the natural hone, DMTs being aggressive.

I've never tried it, but I, like sdsquarepoint, have a slice of one of Randy Tuttle's old coticules, which appears to have been nature's DMT, a piece of kryptonite. It is truly a strange specimen. I don't use it on other coticules, because it's too damn hard and really scratches them, but it's excellent on several hard natural Scottish hones I have that have no slurry stone of their own.

I've never tried it, but I, like sdsquarepoint, have a slice of one of Randy Tuttle's old coticules, which appears to have been nature's DMT, a piece of kryptonite. It is truly a strange specimen. I don't use it on other coticules, because it's too damn hard and really scratches them, but it's excellent on several hard natural Scottish hones I have that have no slurry stone of their own.[/QUOTE]


IT was indeed hard. It creates little slurry from itself and it is pinkish brown unlike any other coticule piece I have seen. I supposed that might be why Randy sacrificed it . MikeB

Originally Posted by dylandog

I think that would work fine, though I'd probably get the 325 or the 600. By the way www.allprotools.com sells tiny 4x1 DMTs that would be perfect for what you're talking about.

The only drawback I can imagine is excessive wear on the natural hone, DMTs being aggressive.

I've never tried it, but I, like sdsquarepoint, have a slice of one of Randy Tuttle's old coticules, which appears to have been nature's DMT, a piece of kryptonite. It is truly a strange specimen. I don't use it on other coticules, because it's too damn hard and really scratches them, but it's excellent on several hard natural Scottish hones I have that have no slurry stone of their own.

Originally Posted by sdsquarepoint

I've never tried it, but I, like sdsquarepoint, have a slice of one of Randy Tuttle's old coticules, which appears to have been nature's DMT, a piece of kryptonite. It is truly a strange specimen. I don't use it on other coticules, because it's too damn hard and really scratches them, but it's excellent on several hard natural Scottish hones I have that have no slurry stone of their own.

IT was indeed hard. It creates little slurry from itself and it is pinkish brown unlike any other coticule piece I have seen. I supposed that might be why Randy sacrificed it . MikeB[/QUOTE]

Dylandog,
I think I had a quoate mishap . Pardon my plagerism.
MikeB

Originally Posted by Quick Orange

For what it's worth, as I'm a newbie honer too, the slurry cuts WAY faster. I've experimented with honing on dry blue and yellow, then with slurry, with fast results with the slurry. I used to think this whole slurry business was just weird, but I'm a believer now.

I CAME TO THE SAME CONCLUSION AS YOU.

A SLURRY VAN.............FOREVER

LIMIT

As a relative newcomer to honing, I have aquired a fantastic stone from Howard, a natural blue and yellow combo plus a cotigura the same. I also have a Norton combo. For general razor maintenance, does anyone have any suggestions for a pyramid for the yellow/blue ? Or do I just stay on the yellow until the blade gets quite dull.

With Belgian hones, there is no need to do pyramids. I usually only use the blue hone if I'm honing a razor from scratch. For touchups, I would stick with the coticule.

The main function of the blue in my arsenal is to take out the coarse scratches from my 1200-grit DMT diamond hone, which I use to repair a damaged edge. The blue does a great job of smoothing that out and setting up the edge for the coticule.

It is not fast-cutting enough to restore a severely damaged edge on its own, so if you really find that you need to drop down in grit to fix an edge, I'd consider using another hone first.

Josh

I meant to give a link to allprotools' little 4x1 DMTs – here it is. $7.86 – not bad.