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  1. #1
    Senior Member yul b. nekst's Avatar
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    Default Theatrical razor has no edge

    I just picked up a beautiful old Sheffield razor that has absolutely no bevel, and no edge. In fact, I think it may have been a theatrical razor-nothing sharp, no one in the play gets hurt. I'm guessing the edge was actually ground off at some point. Anyway, anyone have any ideas how to approach this? I mean is there anything different in the honing approach because there is nothing? I'm assuming I just start with the aggressive pyramid and go from there.

  2. #2
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    This one will be fun. Is it a wedge?

    I'd suggest getting some 600-grit sandpaper and using it to rough in a bevel. It will take a looooooooooong time to do that on a Norton 4K. Do you have a DMT by any chance?

    When I have to grind off an edge (to remove a frown, for instance) and reestablish it on my DMTs, it might take three hours to get the edge back to shave-ready. And these are really fast hones.

    Let us know more so we can help.

    Josh

  3. #3
    RADpimp oSPANNERo's Avatar
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    I know norton makes a 220/1k and that might work. just make sure you tape the spine first! Don't want to wear away that metal!

  4. #4
    Senior Member yul b. nekst's Avatar
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    No wedge. I'm still working on that one! No, this one's a no name Sheffield hollow ground. I have a 6" 600 grit DMT which I do use from time to time on nick removal. Also, what about 1000 grit sandpaper on granite? I've used this on some of my poorer beveled edges to "regrind". I'm going to get myself a 1K Norton, or 1200 Japanese stone one of these days! Tape the edge, huh?

  5. #5
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    I'd use the 600-grit DMT, personally. The 600 is fast enough to get the job done without taking forever or, conversely, destroying the razor.

    The tape is for the SPINE of the razor. If you don't put electrical tape over the spine, you'll put a lot of unnecessary hone wear on it. Once the edge is reestablished you can take the tape off and hone as normal on the Norton. You might want to do a few extra strokes on the DMT to reset the angle of the honing bevel. (The tape will change the angle slightly.)

    This is going to take a while, so don't give in to the temptation to add pressure to make it go faster. Keep the pressure firm but light. No need to float the razor over the hone, but don't bear down, either.

    I haven't had much luck with sandpaper; it works for some but not for me. If you have the DMT, my advice is to use it.

    Josh

  6. #6
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Something to consider is that if it is a theatrical razor it may not really be a razor at all. it might just be some wierd metal fabricated to look like a razor.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  7. #7
    Senior Member yul b. nekst's Avatar
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    I am fairly sure it is a real razor, and I will surely find out during the honing process, but it is a thought being that it has a name I don't recognize. I've never seen a razor with a more perfectly smooth "butter knife" edge, though. The edge was certainly taken off on purpose-or maybe never put on to start with!

  8. #8
    Senior Member smythe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yul b. nekst View Post
    I just picked up a beautiful old Sheffield razor that has absolutely no bevel, and no edge. In fact, I think it may have been a theatrical razor-nothing sharp, no one in the play gets hurt. I'm guessing the edge was actually ground off at some point. Anyway, anyone have any ideas how to approach this? I mean is there anything different in the honing approach because there is nothing? I'm assuming I just start with the aggressive pyramid and go from there.
    If its a theatrical razor the steel may not be hardened.
    Test with a file before you start honing.

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