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  1. #11
    Senior Member Ditch Doc's Avatar
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    Lots of good, informed information there. It will be over the course of the next month collecting these stones. For some reason, instead of using this forum, I ordered the DMT 8k, then posted the thread. I know, dumb, right? At worst, if the DMT isn't working, I can relegate it to the kitchen, and start fresh for razor stones. The next stone purchase is going to be the coticule as I'll be needing it soon for my shaving razor, I don't know why I didn't get it first, but as they say, Such is life, war is hell, but babies are easy to make. With so many options, it is hard to even make an informed beginner's decision and feel good about it. My thought is to go for ease of use, rapid functionality, and final finish being important, but somewhat lower priority than the former. I hear everyone talk about the rough finish of the diamond, but isn't that something that can be straightened out with the coticle? Or is it so rough that you have to get away from it in a lower grit than 8K? I read and read and end up where I started.

  2. #12
    Senior Member Navaja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ditch Doc View Post
    Please forgive me if this has been covered...ad nauseum. I wannt to build my set of hones for basic all-around use from restoration to edge maintenance off of a DMT 8000. I am thinking:
    DMT 300 for lapping
    DMT 1.2K for bevel setting
    DMT 8K for initial polishing
    Yellow coticle for final polishing.
    0.5 micron strop for fun
    Linen 'n' Leather.

    Am I on the right track here? Am I leaving something out? Do you have a better idea for building based off of a DMT 8K?

    Thank you in advance,
    Chad

    Here goes another opinion:
    I believe the DMT-8EE (8K) and the Yellow coticule are redundant, I prefer the Yellow Coticule, you can use it first with slurry and then with only water to remove the scratches of DMT-8E (1.2K).
    To lap the coticule I use 220 grit wet.dry sandpaper on a glass base, using pencil marks on the stone.
    I you want, you can add 1micron 3M Abrasive Film, or any other 1 micron paste, in between the yellow coticule and the 0.5 micron strop.

  3. #13
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    I really like the 4k between the 1.2 and 8k. and it is easy since my norton 8k has the 4k on the other side. I then like to go to a handmade hone with crom ox on it. and go to the leather.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ditch Doc View Post
    Please forgive me if this has been covered...ad nauseum. I wannt to build my set of hones for basic all-around use from restoration to edge maintenance off of a DMT 8000. I am thinking:
    DMT 300 for lapping
    DMT 1.2K for bevel setting
    DMT 8K for initial polishing
    Yellow coticle for final polishing.
    0.5 micron strop for fun
    Linen 'n' Leather.

    Am I on the right track here? Am I leaving something out? Do you have a better idea for building based off of a DMT 8K?

    Thank you in advance,
    Chad
    That is actually my favorite honing progression for all edge tools (but minus the 0.5 micron strop because I have stones that do a better job).

    The DMT C is nice for lapping any stone/hone you could ever acquire and puts a nice edge on any tool very fast.

    The DMT E is great for removing the rough grit marks from the DMT C, or is a good starting place for blades that only need a little rough work before hitting the finer grits.

    The DMT EE will put a razor sharp edge on any tool that has had it's edge properly formed on the DMT E. It removes the 1200 grit scratches in about 10 strokes. BUT the edge will not be smooth enough to give a satisfactory shave.

    The Coticule makes quick work of smoothing out the edge from the DMT EE and is a good starting place for general razor maintenance.

    (some people have repoted being able to smooth out the edge from the DMT EE with just CrO paste, I can't comment but see it as plausible.)

    I say, good job, you'll have some nice edges in no time. Just be carefull to not over-do-it with the diamond plates and make sure that you "break in" the surfaces by lapping them with some kind of stone/hone, chisel, or piece of steel; the factory-fresh DMT surfaces are much harsher than when they are broken in.

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to Russel Baldridge For This Useful Post:

    Ditch Doc (08-18-2008)

  6. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I'm with the Kaptain on this one. I have the D8C 325 for lapping and the D8E 1200 for setting bevels and removing micro chips. I don't care for the diamond hones for sharpening razors beyond that.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  7. #16
    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russel Baldridge View Post
    That is actually my favorite honing progression for all edge tools (but minus the 0.5 micron strop because I have stones that do a better job).

    The DMT C is nice for lapping any stone/hone you could ever acquire and puts a nice edge on any tool very fast.

    The DMT E is great for removing the rough grit marks from the DMT C, or is a good starting place for blades that only need a little rough work before hitting the finer grits.

    The DMT EE will put a razor sharp edge on any tool that has had it's edge properly formed on the DMT E. It removes the 1200 grit scratches in about 10 strokes. BUT the edge will not be smooth enough to give a satisfactory shave.

    The Coticule makes quick work of smoothing out the edge from the DMT EE and is a good starting place for general razor maintenance.

    (some people have repoted being able to smooth out the edge from the DMT EE with just CrO paste, I can't comment but see it as plausible.)

    I say, good job, you'll have some nice edges in no time. Just be carefull to not over-do-it with the diamond plates and make sure that you "break in" the surfaces by lapping them with some kind of stone/hone, chisel, or piece of steel; the factory-fresh DMT surfaces are much harsher than when they are broken in.
    I do about the same but I may throw a few laps on the BBW between the D8EE and the coticule. Also I finish up on the CH12K.

    My only problem with the D8EE and other DMT diamond plates is that you can't round the shoulders. Less forgiving and you have to maintain good form every stroke

  8. #17
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Ditch Doc,
    Congrats, you have just learned that there is no standard method. Everyone has an opinion and some of them might be right. I was not thrilled with your selection of DMTs for honing but I guess I didn't want to second guess you. That's why I limited my suggestion just to saving you a little money. Fortunately, everyone else did second guess you so now you have a lot more to think about. Have fun with that.

    Realize that you can't go wrong in buying any particular hone. You can always correct it by buying another!

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    Ditch Doc (08-18-2008)

  10. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Realize that you can't go wrong in buying any particular hone. You can always correct it by buying another!
    And then end up with HAD, just like a lot of other members.

  11. #19
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    The one thing that seems to be agreed upon is the need to have something between the DMT EE and the chrome ox. I agree with that. The jump from 8000 grit to 0.5 chrome ox is rather large.
    Perhaps a abrasive pasted paddle strop with 1.0 micron diamond paste on one side and 0.5 chrome ox on the other?

    Just another option,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  12. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
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    See first you need to buy one of those "Magic 8 Ball" fortune teller toys and ask it based on all our suggestions, which would be the right one.

    It's already been said that there is more than one effective combination. Now and into the future, be suspect of anyone who emphatically declares with apparent certainty that THEIR method and progression is the best and all others pale in comparison. Another....

    If you can spend a few more bucks, on the polishing end, I do recommend a Shapton 16K Ceramic on Glass stone. It's at the top of my list of hones and will probably last me forever. Talk about an edge refresher!

    The DMTs are pretty inexpensive, so if you find you don't like the D8E for example, you can easily resell it here.

    Keep us posted.

    Chris L

    P.S., if we didn't have all these combinations to obsess about, this forum would be much less active! It's interesting to follow the trends: Reigning King Norton, largely deposed by President Shapton; who is going to be the next "it" hone/s?

    P.P.S., not sayin the Norton 4/8 is a bad stone, I don't think it can be denied that it's currently not THE #1 stone like it used to be. That's all I'm sayin.

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

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