Thread: Belgian "Deep Rock" Hone

During a google session on garnets one of the things stated is that temperature will affect the hardness of a garnet. Part of the process of depostit formation is being buried underground for a long time where there is a high temperature. Perhaps the temperature varied at different depths? Perhaps enough to effect the ability of a garnet to splinter?
perhaps the composition of the binding material varies enough to affect the release of the garnets?

Lots of variables with no firm answers.

Russel.... I have seen the blurring in other coticules as well.

I bought a stone-like from this topic, I think that the stone does not let you down. In appearance, the stone looks soundly. Here is a photo of stone:

Newbie here. Do anyone of you veteran honers know the best way to get the most out of these deep rock coticules? I tried to slurry mine but it hardly gives up slurry. When it does slurry, the result of shaving off slurry is rather rough even with stropping. I also tried water only on the deep rock, but my razor wasn't as keen as with the coticule I got directly from Ardennes. Off the deep rock coticule, the razor barely passes any hanging hair test. If it does, it makes a loud twang cutting the hair. On the other hand, with the stone from Ardennes my razor passes the hanging hair test each time off of just water, around 30-50 stroke and strop with minimal effort. And do you guys know if these deep rock coticules are similar to the BARBERS SPECIAL BELGIAN RAZOR HONEs I see on Ebay? They look very similar. If the barber's special coticule is way better I'll try to get that one to try. Thanks.

Jerry

I have sharpened at its Belgian stone. My experience says that this stone did not finish. After that Belgian stone needed Escher.

I see now. I guess I'll have to look for an Escher stone. I do have a Larkin Co. Thuringian hone, but that hone does not even come close to the Ardennes Coticule. I followed the instructions on the box and using slurry for 15 minutes tried to hone the razor. The razor off the Thuringian hone does cut arm hair but pulls on the face. I wonder if I should just stick to water on the coticule. My barber keeps his razors screaming sharp but won't tell me how he does it beyond stropping. I have my CrOx on my leather strop but that is less effective than stropping on my palm. I have jnats too, but they make the skin burn and bleed even with shaving cream, and I get cut without noticing. I just want a simple smooth shave.

Thanks again Gipson!

You understand that the Belgians are different in properties. A Belgian can be a finishing stone, and the other not. My stone was not finishing.

I have yet to find a coticule that could not produce a serviceable edge. If you make slurry on it, then you are making it a more aggressive cutter so you gradually have to dilute the slurry with water to transition it to a finishing stone.

If you are getting a twanging HHT you probably have produced a sawtooth edge that is catching and breaking, rather than cutting, the hair.

I would suggest that you figure out this stone before buying another one.

Originally Posted by Jerryung

Newbie here. Do anyone of you veteran honers know the best way to get the most out of these deep rock coticules? I tried to slurry mine but it hardly gives up slurry. When it does slurry, the result of shaving off slurry is rather rough even with stropping. I also tried water only on the deep rock, but my razor wasn't as keen as with the coticule I got directly from Ardennes. Off the deep rock coticule, the razor barely passes any hanging hair test. If it does, it makes a loud twang cutting the hair. On the other hand, with the stone from Ardennes my razor passes the hanging hair test each time off of just water, around 30-50 stroke and strop with minimal effort. And do you guys know if these deep rock coticules are similar to the BARBERS SPECIAL BELGIAN RAZOR HONEs I see on Ebay? They look very similar. If the barber's special coticule is way better I'll try to get that one to try. Thanks.

Jerry

I wish I had a stone that would make my HHT have a 'loud twang' !

I've had labelled Old Rock, and Deep Rock hones. I don't think that label makes it 'better' than an unlabeled hone. You pays your money, and you takes your chances. If you are getting good results with the Ardennes coticule I guess, even though you are a new honer, you must have some skills.

I wouldn't give up on that Deep Rock yet, but I'd put it away for a time. When you feel like you're really 'good' at honing revisit the Deep Rock and see if it doesn't work better for you. Might or might not, but I wouldn't get rid of it too soon.

Thanks guys. I'll keep trying on the deep rock coticule and fall back on the Ardennes coticule if all else fails.

Have a great evening,

Jerry

Originally Posted by randydance062449

During a google session on garnets one of the things stated is that temperature will affect the hardness of a garnet. Part of the process of depostit formation is being buried underground for a long time where there is a high temperature. Perhaps the temperature varied at different depths? Perhaps enough to effect the ability of a garnet to splinter?
perhaps the composition of the binding material varies enough to affect the release of the garnets?

Lots of variables with no firm answers.

Russel.... I have seen the blurring in other coticules as well.

Not true. Garnet is Garnet. Garnets range in hardness from 6.5-7.5 on the Mohs scale and temperature has zilch to do with it. It depends on the type of Garnet. Garnet comes in quite a few variations depending on the chemical makeup. It would be really rare to find two different varieties together.



Mineral Composition Specific Gravity Hardness Colors
Almandine Fe3Al2(SiO4)3 4.20 7 - 7.5 red, brown
Pyrope Mg3Al2(SiO4)3 3.56 7 - 7.5 red to purple
Spessartine Mn3Al2(SiO4)3 4.18 6.5 - 7.5 orange to red to brown
Andradite Ca3Fe2(SiO4)3 3.90 6.5 - 7 green, yellow, black
Grossular Ca3Al2(SiO4)3 3.57 6.5 - 7.5 green, yellow, red, pink, clear
Uvarovite Ca3Cr2(SiO4)3 3.85 6.5 - 7 green