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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProfessorShak View Post
    I wasn't aware that it needed lapping. I'm more of a minimalist and try to avoid purchasing too many things to do the same job. The only items I bought is the Norton 4K/8K and an Illinois 835 Strop which I thought was all that was needed, both from ClassicShaving. After reading the threads, I've noticed that I may have to get a DMT8 and a Chinese 12K or make a Balsa Paddle with CO.
    Anyone have suggestions/recommendations?

    I am also arranging to discuss honing with RichZ, who happens to be nearby. As for having a reference for sharpness I have PLENTY of DE razors, but I'd still like to have a shave ready straight.
    Lapping is highly recommended because the hone's surface may be slightly irregular from the factory and thus inhibited proper usage. There are many ways to lap a hone; sandpaper, water, and a flat surface are all that's necessary.

    The Chinese 12k is a great stone for the price (it'll need to be lapped also) but isn't a necessity. A pasted paddle will do a similar job if you find the 8k to be too coarse. Balsa wood is readily available and cheap, as is CrO paste.

    Your DE blades are a good reference, but as has been said, a straight razor's edge is "different". Just be conscious of that, take your time, and try to have fun.

  2. #2
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    I agree with a lot of what has been said, base on my two weeks of honing expirience. I bought a lot of old razors on ebay to practice on. Some of the edges are uneven or even frowning. I found myself getting frustrated after several hours of work on them when I realized, 'I'm just learning...just beginning.' Just because we beginners can't fix problematic razors, doesn't mean we aren't learning/improving or honing our skills (or razors, haha). I keep reminding myself, baby steps...be patient. Untill then, I am looking forward to one of my Dovos or Bokers to need honing so I can test myself on a good edge.

    On a completely unrelated note, any opinions here about using electrical tape to prevent hone wear on the spine? The way I understand it, if you use it, you have to always use it, or use it at ALL grits to prevent double or uneven bevels? Any advice?

  3. #3
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    If you start with tape, go all the way with tape, right up to the test shave. Once the razor passes the test shave, peel the tape off, use a little oil to remove tape residue and be happy!
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

  4. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I started out the same way, buying lots of ebay specials and working on honing. I was lucky to have a forum member with a lot of experience to start me in the right direction with personal lessons. He used 1 layer of tape and so did I for the first year. I don't use tape anymore but I'm glad that I did when I was learning. When I was starting out I might have overdid the pressure and skinned up some spines unnecessarily. Not an issue now. Good luck with your honing.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #5
    Carbon-steel-aholic DwarvenChef's Avatar
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    I only tape on problem edges till the problem goes away. Than off comes the tape and set the bevel and move on.

  6. #6
    Member AFDavis11's Avatar
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    Using a pyramid to update a razor is like adjusting the time on a watch with a hammer.

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