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    Senior Member SteveS's Avatar
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    If you can't get the edge to grab/cut a hair off your 8000 grit stone, I think you don't yet have a good, sharp bevel. I'd stay with your 3000 grit stone until you can get the edge to pop arm hairs by passing the blade above the skin and it feels sticky on the Thumb Pad Test.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Basic breakdown of honing is always the same, but the method that you use to get there is varied..

    First: Set a nice even sharp bevel...
    Second: Sharpen that bevel...
    Third: Polish and refine the sharp edge...

    That it!!!!
    So why is it so difficult????

    Two major reasons, from what I have seen when honing blades for other people who have tried it, and then given up, and sent me the razors...
    The majority are under-honed, there is no bevel set, the edge is just not sharp enough.... Keep in mind that if the edge on your lowest grit is not sharp, I mean hair cutting sharp, then moving up in grits will most likely not get it there.... (using a progression not the Norton pyramids)

    The other lesser seen problem is over-honing, this is almost inevitably caused by pressure when honing....

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    Member BFMC AJ's Avatar
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    When I look at the edge in the light it appears nice and even with no indication of a line (can't remember what that line is called).

    I've avoided using anything below a 3000 grit because I thought that was a no-no for a blade unless it was already damaged in some way.

    So should I drop down to a 1000 for 10 or 20 passes and then do a pyramid with 3000 and 8000 grit?

    Also, I've seen some people talk about putting some tape on the spine to prevent wear when honing. But that seems like it would mess up the angle. Am I right?

    One more question...ok, three. I've seen people talking about using a barber hone to "freshen" the edge with 3 to 5 passes. How often is normal for that? Every two or three weeks? Is that instead of using the linen?

    Thanks for the help everyone. I don't expect this to be easy or to produce results anywhere near what SRD got on my other razor...but passing the HHT would be nice. Oh yeah, I decided to send in this razor too so it could be sharpened correctly since I am using both of them for daily use. I'll practice on a couple of others to get honing right.

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    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    I have a stainless razor I made several hundred passes on a 1000 grit to work through a double bevel. I don't think 1000 is too course for a tough job

    But what do I know, I saw the title of this thread and said to myself "Oh yeah isn't that the truth!"
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

  5. #5
    Member BFMC AJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoglahoo View Post
    I have a stainless razor I made several hundred passes on a 1000 grit to work through a double bevel.
    Oh good God....what is a double bevel? Do I want to know? My head already hurts!

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    A double bevel is when a layer of tape is added to the spine thickness so that the bevel is sharpened at a more obtuse angle. Returning the blade to the orginal bevel angle requires much more work than maintaining one consistent angle like you're trying to do.

    Old_School pretty much summed it up, your finishing hone is nowhere near as fine as many of the pros use.

    You should be able to get the HHT to work with the the hones that you have, but that just comes with practice and a very light touch toward the end of the honing process.

    A pasted strop (Chromium Oxide pasted) will bring most edges up to a similar level of smoothness/sharpness if used in moderation. Do a search for how to make one out of balsa wood, very inexpensive and very effective.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    AJ, you can do acouple of things now that you know your razor is not nearly as sharp as you'd like it.

    Check whether your hones are really nice and flat. Some hones need lapping before you can use them.
    Second: do the bevel marking test which will tell you if you hav a good bevel on both sides along the whole cutting edge of the razor. I am not sure whether you'll ever be able to pop hairs off your arm after the 3K as SteveS suggests (sorry Steve, I do disagree with you here).

    When you think your bevel is OK then move from the 3K to the 8K and do about 30-50 laps and check if you can pop hairs now. But strop first before you do the arm hair test every time!. If no good after 30-50 laps go back to the 3K and so on till you notice improvement.

    Spending much time on the 8K is pointless unless you got your bevel right on the 3K.

    Different apporach: send the razor to a honemeister and ask him to analyse your razor for you.
    Last edited by Kees; 09-03-2008 at 06:58 PM.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    JAS eTea, LLC netsurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFMC AJ View Post
    Oh good God....what is a double bevel? Do I want to know? My head already hurts!
    Don't worry about a double bevel at this point. You should focus on the basics IMHO.

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    I can't think of a good way to do this, but are there any pics of what the bevel looks like when it's good? I'm trying to practice on my FIL's auction find and i'm not sure how it's coming along.

  10. #10
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFMC AJ View Post
    When I look at the edge in the light it appears nice and even with no indication of a line (can't remember what that line is called). A double bevel but you have to take great care in creating one... or you made one by mistake and lifted the spine....

    I've avoided using anything below a 3000 grit because I thought that was a no-no for a blade unless it was already damaged in some way.
    Not necessarily, if the bevel is very rounded then a 1k stone can cut that metal away very quickly

    So should I drop down to a 1000 for 10 or 20 passes and then do a pyramid with 3000 and 8000 grit? There is no set number of laps, I just did a W&B hollow that required about 120 laps on a 1k to get the bevel right and a Craftsman and a Wacker that required 20 each so that depends on the razor.... Keep in mind that those pyramids that you see were actually developed for use with the Norton stones....

    Also, I've seen some people talk about putting some tape on the spine to prevent wear when honing. But that seems like it would mess up the angle. Am I right? No the angle change from one layer of electrical tape is insignificant.... in fact there are some of us that swear by it too...
    (a whole other can of worms there)

    One more question...ok, three. I've seen people talking about using a barber hone to "freshen" the edge with 3 to 5 passes. How often is normal for that? Every two or three weeks? Is that instead of using the linen?
    No there is no qualification of "NORMAL" each person and razor is different... The use of linen only cleans the edge before stropping but this is another topic of heated discussion here... the simple fact is that it is way easier to maintain an edge then to create one...

    Thanks for the help everyone. I don't expect this to be easy or to produce results anywhere near what SRD got on my other razor...but passing the HHT would be nice. Oh yeah, I decided to send in this razor too so it could be sharpened correctly since I am using both of them for daily use. I'll practice on a couple of others to get honing right.

    As you can see there is a lot of different information on how to hone razors.... Again I'll take you back to my original post and the 3 stages of honing... Bevel, Sharpen, then Polish..... you have to figure out how to accomplish all three of these stages using the equipment that you have on hand... What might work for me with my honing stroke and the stones I am using can be of no use to you.... even the number of laps that I posted above have no real relevance because that was on my stone with a certain razor and the stroke that I use....

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