Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    49
    Thanked: 0

    Default Toe isn't sharpening

    I've been practicing like a cadet for a few weeks getting my technique into better shape. I've moved on to try to hone my actual razors and while I feel the middle and heel of the blade have become sharp, no matter which hone or stroke I use, the toe isn't getting sharper. I did the marker test and It may be a double bevel but I can't tell for sure. Under a micro scope, I don't see two different lines but I don't see a scratch pattern either I see metal coming off and the marker fading in the toe, but why isn't it getting sharper???

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,292
    Thanked: 150

    Default

    What grit of hone are you using? And what was the blade's condition (just slightly dulled from being used, or very dull from years of neglect)?

    Things always go smoother if you start at the lowest grit that's reasonable for the blades condition.

  3. #3
    A Newbie....Forever! zepplin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Nampa, Idaho
    Posts
    783
    Thanked: 77

    Default

    A few questions:

    Where are you in regard to your honing process? In other words, have you established a good bevel, yet? - I suspect not, if you have no scratch pattern at the toe area. I feel this phase (establishing the bevel) is critical before moving on in the honing process, otherwise, whatever you do at this stage is useless. Another question: is your blade straight or curved? If curved, you may need to use a "rolling X" stroke when doing your laps. What stones are you using? - and, in particular, which stone R U using to establish your bevel?

    Steve

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    49
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    The Razoris a TI and came brand new from AoS. It never shaved well from the start. Touch up didn't work so I decided to set a new bevel. I started in the DMT 1200 but then someone said I should just use the 4k side of my norton until it's set. I've been doing it and after 200+ passes I don't have a, even remotely sharp, toe, a good 1/2 inch at least. The rest of the blade is sharp. Except for the rolling stroke I've used every method I know. I've thought about using the 1200 until I get something but I dont want to remove too much metal and I'm not sure if thats going to work. I was able to establish an edge on my burnt blade so I figured my technique is reasonable.

  5. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    4,445
    Thanked: 834

    Default

    Are you saying when you apply the marker to the bevels and hone on the 4000 (or whatever hone) the marker disappears on the toe portion like it does for the heel and the middle? I'd find that very odd if that was the case.

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    1,588
    Thanked: 286

    Default

    I had the same problem with my new dovo macarta the blade was sharp except for the toe i could actualy feel the blunt toe easily when i did the thumb pad test but could see the bevel shape was there. So i honed in pyramid fashion with the usaul 4k and 8k i also did a few strokes first of all on the 12k kitiyama to see how much marker was being removed and there it was the marker did slightly fade on the toe but would'nt vanish.So i did a very slight and light rocking x pattern stroke and the marker came straight of i carried on and the razor after a thew attemps is now shaving well aided with chr oxide. I'm a beginner but i have honed all my old and new razors with a slight and light rocking motion using marker to start with so i no what is getting the hone i always use this method now as it is the only way for me to fully hit the heel and the very toe every time i have xallant shaving razors

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,292
    Thanked: 150

    Default

    Yep, it sounds like you need to try the rolling X stroke:  

    It boils down to making sure that the edge makes contact with the hone at all points down the length of the blade, while keeping some part of the spine on the hone as well.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Russel Baldridge For This Useful Post:

    timberrr59 (10-10-2008)

  9. #8
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    11,544
    Thanked: 3795
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I suppose an important question is, have you tried to use an x-pattern honing stroke yet? Your previous posts indicated an unwillingness to use it. If that is still the case, then that might be contributing to the problem.

  10. #9
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    4,521
    Thanked: 1636

    Default ti

    i think i know what are you talking about. this TI set come up with double bevel.steel is carbon steel and very hard one.you can fix this problem in 2 ways.
    1 st use tape back of the blade you will need at least 2 lyers of black electric tape may be 3.in this case you will save back of the Ti
    2 nd is you will need to go 800-1000grit level and start honing pay attention to the blade check often undo misroscope to see you rich 1 level bevel.then stop and go slowly sharpening .uses 4000,8000k ,belgian, escher,chroimium oxide
    i can assure you this is special blade very very hard still .you work with it 1 hour and check blade seems like nothing happen to it.Good luck be patient

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •