Thread: Question for DMT users

Jcitron,

If you "sawhoned" the bevel away, it will take many (an understatement, actually) laps to reestablish a new bevel. Somehow, doing a high amount of laps on a hone that's a bit to fine for a given task, is more likely to introduce unevenness, than using less laps on coarser hones. For completely rebuilding bevels, I always start with a DMT 325, next the 600 and only then the 1200.
If you haven't got a coarser hone than the 1200, you might be better off using sandpaper on a known flat surface.

I have seen 4 DMT D6E so far, of which one required considerably more breaking in than the others. A great way to smooth out a DMT 1200 is to put a coticule slurry on it and rub a flat piece of steel (like a cabinet scraper) back and forth, with some pressure. (It's also a great way for polishing cabinet scrapers).

The only way to be sure that a DMT is properly broken in, is to check a honed edge for microchips, under magnification. But you generally also feel the edge hitting elevated diamond particles during the honing, and severe microchipping can be felt with a TNT.

I find that a drop of dishwashing saop added to the water allowes for a smoother honing feel, and the water covers the DMT better as well.

I wouldn't take a file, or anythinh with a very coarse grit to the DMT. There's a risk that you pull lots of diamond particles out of the nickel matrix, and that's not the idea of "breaking in".

Bart.