Thread: belgium blue

Yes, just add some water to the Belgian Blue surface, flip your DMT over and place the DMT on top of the belgian blue. Then with a small number of circular motions, you'll have slurry on your blue and also on your DMT. I take my finger and wipe the slurry on the DMT off and add it to the Blue (or any other stone I do this to).

Chris L

Chris how would you use bbw /yellow together to refesh a razor i no i would need to finish on yellow how would i use the blue i have a rough idea but i have just orderd a blue and not to sure what progession is normally used.

Hmmm, I'll have to try some of these progressions. I've had no luck getting my Blue to do anything for me. It seems to dull my edge if used after the Norton 4k.... I want to use it because its got such a great feel. We'll see...

Jordan

I have a 4k but from what i have read the blue is a 4k and replaces the norton 4k. when i first used my yellow coticule with just slurry that dulled my razor a little but when i used water after slurry a good 100 laps that sorted my edge right out

Gary:

It depends on where an edge is at prior to bringing it to the blue. If you need to set a bevel, than I would be dropping to a lower grit. You mentioned that you have the DMT 1200. I use that plate (which has been broken in very well but still has the sound/feeling of clenching your teeth and honing on a sidewalk. By the feel and sound you'd think that the edge is getting just trashed. Not so IF......the plate is broken in very well.

After the bevel is set, then again, depending on the hardness of the steel, 50-100 passes with blue slurry. Then finish with water for 50-100 passes (do 50 then test the edge, then if needed, do 25 or 50 more. Then, proceed as you have on the coticule.

Another way to switch it up: Do the slurry on the blue, then water on the blue, then just laps on the coticule with water only.

Chris L

Chris i would most likley be using my hones to improve an edge i normally start with yellow slight slurry untill blade feels real sharp then finish with water. This does the the trick so would i use blue before hand with medium slurry and then carry on to my coticule as normal? i'm just weiry that slurry can round edge as you no.

If you're working on edges that are already pretty close or, they really don't need much work, than I would do what you're still doing and just use the coticule with slurry then water and not drop down to the blue at all.

The blue works well for me with slurry after I set a bevel on a coarse grit. It take care of the coarse grit bevel scratches well. With water, it refines more than with slurry of course and it a good launching pad for the coticule.

I hope that helps.

Chris L

Thanxs for that advice chris. The thing is when you get a new hone theres all ways the temptation to want to try it out at least i no it is hard to over hone with the belgiums so i supose you can risk trying out differant methods thanxs again gary.

I just wanted to add one thing on the slurry, dulling issue.... I do the same as the rest of you, slurry first on the Coticule and then on to water only to perk the edge back up slightly BUT, if I go straight from the slurry to the strop and give the blade a good stropping, it's usually hair popping sharp even though it wouldn't pass the hht when taken directly from the hone. You might just want to try that for yourself. I use an Illinoise 827 strop (the rough side of the leather out type) when I do that and it's amazing how it brings that slurry honed edge up. I'll usually finish on a nice smooth TM strop but I never cease to be amazed by the results I get from the 827.

Christian

The other thing i carn't under stand is they say blue is a 4k and yellow is 8k.The way i see it is there both the same except the yellow produces more garnets which makes it a faster cutter? and blue less which makes it a slower cutter so surley you could start on yellow and finish on the blue and it is the garnets that do the cutting in the slurry may be some one can explain?