Thread: help honing my W&B

so i found a Wade and Butcher at an antique shop for $15 and while the scales are pretty rotten (though still very functional and sturdy) the blade is in pretty good shape. no pitting, just discolouration here and there and the edge has no chips (though it is dull). there is a bevel that is could work with but i have some questions.

1. the the spine is pretty thick so my guess is that the bevel will be narrower then thinner razors. am i wrong here? (this is just for my visuals as i like to look at the bevel a lot while honing)

2. if i set the razor on the hone with full spine contact the heel of the edge does not touch. is this normal? it does it on both sides, so was it improperly honed? my first thought was that ( as the blade width gets thinner as you go closer to the heel, but not that much) the blade needed to be evened out and given a new bevel ( basicly to even out the width) but i don't want to do anything drastic until i get some opinions from the experienced people on here.

3. should i tape the spine? i usually do on my other razors but they are a lot thinner so spine wear is a concern sometimes. do i want to add more width to and already wide spine?

any answers or suggestions would be great and i will have pics up very soon (i am at work and forgot the razor at home)

GOOD freaking LUCK !!!!

W&B heavy blades are a "female dog" to hone...
Yes the heel being a "Little Off" is the norm the toe probably is too...
They require a "special" touch on the hones.... as in tape, Rocking X, circles, Regular X and probably some we haven't named yet....

I of course am only speaking in general, as I finally after many W&B's actually honed a straight one, so I can no longer say that they "ALL" are a little off...

Great steel though

When I see a honemeister/restorer/gunsmith of GSSIXGUN's caliber (pun intended) say, "Good freaking luck" a chill goes down my spine.

Let us know how that one works out for you, Chee.

Start your honing stroke with the heel in contact with the hone. this may mean lifting the tip, including the tip of the spine slightly off the hone. As you progress your blade along the hone, gently and gradually roll that point of contact up the edge to the tip for the end of the stroke. This is the Rolling Hone or Rolling X stroke.

X

i forgot to add that this blade doesn't seem to be a smiling blade to me. i could be wrong but there is no real smile to it. i'm still gong to try the rolling X stroke and marker on the bevel to see where it is contacting. thanks for the posts and i will get some pics to help you guys help me.

here are some pics finally. i shined it up a bit but it didn't take much. this one cost me $15 at an antique shop which i was excited about. you can't tell in the pics but the scales are starting to flake and splinter on one end nearest the tang but are actually still solid and tight and the blade is just barely off center and doesn't hit when closing. this brand was one that i really wanted to have in my collection. i have a Boker and a now a Wade & Butcher, two Puma's (that both are new but need some work due to strange rust) and my others are no big names but will be good honing projects (a Sir Nigel, Barber Special, Bailey that looks like a regrind but says Brantford Canada so i thought it was neat). i also have my Dovo Best Quality which is still great.

the only one will be keeping my eye out for is a Boker Red Injun as they look pretty nice and my nickname with my friends is Injun (i know, its a stupid reason but can you really go wrong witha Boker anyways). i have spent enough for now though so i will wait it outto find a deal on one, or find some money for a nice one, ha!

sorry here are the pics.

That might be a little easier since it does look to have a straight edge.....

i have the sister to that razor it is one of the best shavers that i have ledeing heel x patern should get it verry sharp i put some stiches in my ear with this one doing the sideburns. but i still love her.

so basicly i should just concentrate on a light touch while keeping the edge in contact and not worry about the spine with the X pattern. i will see where i can get with it as the blade doesn't sit that far up with the spine down, so the adjustment shouldn't be too drastic. i will keep my progress posted as usual, to feed my addiction to these forums abviously

Maybe its the angle but that sure looks like a frameback to me. If it is it should be much easier to hone.