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  1. #11
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris L View Post
    Is your .5 and .25 diamond pastes? If so, you really need some chrome ox to smooth the edges. Check out the hone section of the classifieds for some.

    Chris L
    I just bought one of your Chinese 12k's. I just couldn't help it. Yes, the .5 and .25 are diamond pastes. I only have one bare side on the paddle strop, but Tony treated it to give it increased draw, so I doubt I could put chrome ox on it; I'd need to buy another paddle strop.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloorPizza View Post
    That is *really* good to hear. I shaved with my Puma today that had 75 laps on the 1 micron diamond paste, 50 laps on the .50, then 50 laps on the .25 micron paste. It was passing the HHT all the way down the blade. I only did 25 laps on the bare strop, though, and the shave was *harsh*. So much so that I didn't finish the WTG pass under my chin; it was just too irritating. Looks like I need to spend some more time on the bare leather.
    I am not a pro by any means but you are way over doing the laps. Diamond paste cuts very quickly. I do not do even half what you are doing, and just to interject, the laps that I do have no added pressure on the blade at all, the lighter the better. I hear the Chromium smooths a blade very well also and knocks down the harshness, I have often wondered if Chromium after the 0.25 would work but I defer to others that know. Personally I like the 0.25 because I shave with a very light touch and cuts that do happen are almost non-existent. YMMV


    Take Care,
    R

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  4. #13
    Senior Member nickyspaghetti's Avatar
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    Yeah, that is definately too much on the pastes - I usually do 10-15 on .5 and then take it in 5 lap steps if it isn't up to scratch. If you do too many it does create a harsh edge, usually the first shave is killer then the edge tends to degrade in my experience.

  5. #14
    Cheapskate Honer Wildtim's Avatar
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    If you really aren't going to use those 3M honing films any more you can send them my way, PM me and I'll send a self adressed envelope.

    My system is now just honing film and a swaty for touch up. It works for me giving easy consistant results.

    THats all there is to it really picking a system that will work and getting ggod enough with it so it works for you. Then you can look at the drawbacks to the system you are using and see if they are somethng you want to live with or if another stone or system would do away with the things you can't live with.

    For me I don't like to have to lap, I don't do a lot of razors, or hone often and I hate to spend a lot of money. The Honng film system solves allthese problems. If I did a bunch of razors, or really enjoyed working for that perfectly honed edge The films would leave me short and i would go back to stones.

  6. #15
    Senior Member nickyspaghetti's Avatar
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    I see you can buy .3 micron honing film on woodcraft - I guess that would give you a much better edge than on paste - comparable to a hone. Is that right? if so I might put off buying the shapton 30k for some honing film.

  7. #16
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickyspaghetti View Post
    I see you can buy .3 micron honing film on woodcraft - I guess that would give you a much better edge than on paste - comparable to a hone. Is that right? if so I might put off buying the shapton 30k for some honing film.
    Once you get down and below the 1 micron level, it's very hard to determine which side of the paper has the abrasive on it. If you get the papers that have an adhesive backing, it's much easier. The paper that comes with the adhesive backing is more expensive, but it's worth it.

    When you go to apply the film.... fill up your kitchen sink with about six inches of water. Put your marble tile (or whatever you're using for a flat surface) in the sink. Add a few drops of dish soap. This will prevent the adhesive from sticking so hard to the tile, but it'll still stick hard enough. Remove the adhesive backing from the film, submerge it, lightly apply it to your flat surface, work the air bubbles out, roll your finger down it firmly to stick the adhesive to the flat surface, and you're done.

    The only problem I have with the honing films is that they wear out very quickly. On the coarser grits, it's easy to tell when they're worn out. On the one micron (the smallest I have) it's very hard to tell when it's worn out. I've gotten into the habbit of changing them every fifty laps.

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  9. #17
    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    Default You will want to look at this if you haven't already

    Forum search is a wonderful thing (when it works)
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi..._Abrasive_Film

    Edit: I see you have read that thread, FloorPizza, did you find it helpful?
    Last edited by hoglahoo; 11-11-2008 at 07:35 PM. Reason: changed forum link to wiki link
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

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  11. #18
    Just one more lap... FloorPizza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoglahoo View Post
    Forum search is a wonderful thing (when it works)
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...de-review.html

    Edit: I see you have read that thread, FloorPizza, did you find it helpful?
    Very much so. Wildtim's information was fantastic, as were all the tips about applying the films to a flat surface.

    I really enjoyed using the films, and honestly, if they didn't wear out so fast, I never would have bought my hones.

    I think I've read just about every thread there is on honing now.

  12. #19
    yeehaw. Ben325e's Avatar
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    Nick,

    I can't tell a bit of difference with the .3 honing film vs .5 chromium oxide. I have the film from woodcraft, and I'd spend my money elsewhere if I had to do it over again.

    We always talk about particle size in microns, but particle SHAPE is important too. That's why people get a smoother shave off of .5 Chromium oxide vs .5 diamond.

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