Thread: Setting a bevel on a Norton 4K

Cheers guys for all this input. I'll go through it a bit at a time.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

Sandy - I use the plastic electrical tape as it tends to stay down and not fray like the stuff that looks like it has fibres in it.

YES! Yes! Thats EXACTLY the stuff I have! It looks like it has something woven into it. I presumed it would be better- like it had better grip. But it seems this is the wrong stuff? Thats fine. Live and learn

Originally Posted by Jimbo

On a wedge (or any razor for that matter, it is just more obvious on a wedge) I feel it does not matter how you remove the metal when heading toward the bevel being created. So I tend to hone in circles, use a bit of pressure, etc until the bevel gets close....... That is not to say you should not be careful. All I am saying is that you don't have to go down, flip, up, flip, down, flip, up, flip...... with the pressure of a feather on the wind for 5 hours on a bread-knifed wedge, or whatever, to get the bevel created.

Thank GOD! I had been wondering whether I had to keep doing that. I was getting so impatient with it and wanted to take a side at a time approach. As in up, down, up, down, up, down........ flip..... up, down, up, down...... You get the idea? Would that would that work? Would that be appropriate?

Originally Posted by Ditch Doc

I think you should get a 220 or 1000 grit Norton, that will reduce the time, and just keep at it.

I am certain that I do want to get another hone. However I believe if I were to get anything else it would be coticles. Everyone is always going on about them and I believe I made the wrong decision from the start in getting a Norton instead of a belgian blue and a yellow coticle.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I really should get a DMT 1200 for bevel setting but I already have a DMT 325 and a DMT 220 and I'd rather not spend 60 bucks on yet another DMT. I definitely will get one for bevel setting after I wear out my Norton 1000 in a couple more years.

With Christmas looming buying anything for me is defenitely out. Perhaps in the new year.


Thanks very much guys. To all of you.

Novice honer here (I have had a string of successes in the past few evenings though).

I messed around with the Norton 220 and 1k for quite a while trying to get some eBay razors up to speed. Maybe it's just me, but I've gotten the impression from using them that it's easier to make a bowl out of those stones than it is to set a bevel with one. Keeping them flat was eating up a lot of time (I went to a granite slab and sandpaper as the flattening stone was giving them domes).

Part of that may be just part of the necessary offering to Odin in exchange for learning the skill of honing.

I just started using a DMT fine stone that I picked up locally (red plastic brick with a perforated steel mesh over the top) and bam! A string of successes. I build a slight wire edge with it, bust that off, then give it a dozen'ish more very gentle strokes before doing the same on the 4k before getting into the smooth stones. They are all now sharp or at least very close.

Originally Posted by sidneykidney

.....

YES! Yes! Thats EXACTLY the stuff I have! It looks like it has something woven into it. I presumed it would be better- like it had better grip. But it seems this is the wrong stuff? Thats fine. Live and learn

Thank GOD! I had been wondering whether I had to keep doing that. I was getting so impatient with it and wanted to take a side at a time approach. As in up, down, up, down, up, down........ flip..... up, down, up, down...... You get the idea? Would that would that work? Would that be appropriate?

I am certain that I do want to get another hone. However I believe if I were to get anything else it would be coticles. Everyone is always going on about them and I believe I made the wrong decision from the start in getting a Norton instead of a belgian blue and a yellow coticle.

With Christmas looming buying anything for me is defenitely out. Perhaps in the new year.

Thanks very much guys. To all of you.

Well, I have always had pretty good success with the plastic type electrical tape. I often use two layers on a wedge to speed things up a bit. You do have to watch it on coarser grits because it does wear out, but that is no biggie if you are careful.

A few strokes on each side or whatever before you flip is not going to kill the razor - just be careful and do it evenly on both sides. You don't want to create an uneven or off-center bevel if it can be avoided. As long as you match what you do equally on both sides, it should be fine.

I have not had a lot of experience with my Belgian combo yet, but from what little I have had I'd say it is a good idea to get them if you can afford it. However, they are not as fast (as far as I can tell) as my Norton. You will still need a bevel setter, for sure.

James.

If I tape the spine of a razor I always use Polyurethane "helicopter" tape. Its clear and abrasion resistant and is available in several different thicknesses. I use the .008" thick.

I am currently working on a W&B wedge. Using a 2K Shapton Glass stone I probably have at least 6 hours into getting the bevel set. You have to remember these blades are over a hundred years old-and maybe haven't been honed CORRECTLY since they were NEW. W&B steel is good stuff and SLOW is BETTER. Its not a race. Relax-have some patience.

Setting the bevel IS the most IMPORTANT step in honing. Screw the bevel up and you will never be satisfied with the edge. Personally I'd go more agressive than a 4K-but don't be tempted to go down to far just to speed up the process. Restoring razors takes patience and ALOT of time. HASTE MAKES WASTE!

I got the impression that the tape is not wearing out so much as the edge catching and rolling up. Don't most wedges have just a little concavity to the blade? Are you using the full width of the tape? or are you cutting it into thinner strips?

OK lets see if I can answer some questions. The tape I was using WAS being cut into smaller strips as the sheer width of the tap as it was would have covered both sides of the razor completely. The tape wasnt wearing out, it was catching on the hone and sticking. I WISH I could use something more aggressive than a 4K grit but unless its wet/dry sandpaper I dont have anything like that.

I went looking for more tape today but couldnt find anything more suitable. There is masking tape (kinda paper-like on the surface, not at all suitable), Heavy duty double-sided (I have some already and know its not appropriate), The stuff I got with fibres in it that doesnt work, regular sellotape and what I think I will try next....

... parcel tape. Two or three layers of it.

We'll see what happens.

I would look up circle honing and try it out if you stick with the 4K for setting the bevel.

As far as tape 1/2 inch black electrical tape is what I always use, and I have worn through it many a time working on a tough razors though never had the problem you seem to.

If you have a good flat surface, polished granite etc. You might give 1000 grit wet dry a shot, just be careful 1000 grit sandpaper is fast and poor technique can do a lot of damage fast.

Hey all!

Maybe it's time to get a lower grit stone? The lower the grit the faster you remove that pesky metal and can set a smooth bevel and then do the 4k - 8k pyramid - sound good to any one?

=)

Cubed as I have said already I would love a new stone. But christmas is coming and I am skint. I havent got a job. So no chance of a new stone sadly.

Sandy

Last year I tried to set a bevel on a wedge 8/8 (actually, a Chinese vintage razor, the ones that look like a mini hatchet) using Norton 4k. After 30 minutes I could tell this was like flogging a dead horse. I put it away into storage.

Last month I bought myself a DMT1200. Took out the old Chinese hatchet, did some heavy honing on it for 30 mins again and this time managed to set the bevel.

A DMT1200 will set you back about £50. If your budget doesn't run to that, definitely go the wet & dry route.