Thread: Sharpening Stainless Steel

OK, so I took another shot at sharpening the Hess today. I *very lightly* bread knifed the micro chips out of the edge with my Chinese 12k.

I then reset the bevel with 15 micron 3M film, using the very most gentle pressure I could. I hadn't taken much of the bevel out with the 12k, so this didn't take very long. About 40 laps, and it passed the TNT along the entire blade, with ZERO Microchips! Yay!

I then went to 5 micron 3M film. Again, using the most gentle passes I could. I did this until it was passing the HHT and shaving arm hair above skiin level. I didn't count, but I'd say around 100 laps. Again, no microchips!

When I ordered my 3M films, the place was out of 3 micron film, so I had to jump from the 5 micron film all the way down to 1 micron. Yeesh. It is very, very difficult to tell when 1 micron film is worn out, so I did 100 laps on one piece, replaced it, then did another 100 laps on the second piece. And yes, I was careful about "overhoning"; I stopped honing as soon as the scratch marks from the 5 micron film were gone. Plus I think you could hone for a year straight on one micron without overhoning.

The 1 Micron film was my final stop. I decided against the 12k chinese for fear of microchipping, and didn't feel like creating any sort of rounded edge from the diamond pastes on the paddle strop.

Under the microscope, the edge looks amazing. There are no visible scratch marks at 100x, and the edge is arrow straight. Narry a chip to be seen.

Guys, this is *the* sharpest blade I've ever seen. Whenever I've gotten a blade to do the HHT, there's usually a bit of a "catch" feeling, and a bit of a "ping" from the blade as the hair is cut. Not this time. The hair just lays over the blade like it had it's back broken. No catch, no noise, nothing. I know the HHT is not the end all/be all of sharpness tests, but for me to get the HHT to this level is a break through, especially since the edge looks so smooooooth. Often times, it seems that the HHT is passed because of a rough edge that snags, holds, then cuts the hanging hair. This results in a pulling, tugging shave, which is exactly what happened to me last night with this same razor. But seeing an HHT like this, makes me think that the HHT might be a valid test, if the "Pass" truly is that... a "pass", and not a ragged edge catching the hair and pinging the blade.

I can shave the very finest of arm hair with zero pressure with this edge.

If this doesn't pass the shave test, I'm gonna be at a total loss...

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

OK, so I took another shot at sharpening the Hess today. I *very lightly* bread knifed the micro chips out of the edge with my Chinese 12k.

...

I can shave the very finest of arm hair with zero pressure with this edge.

If this doesn't pass the shave test, I'm gonna be at a total loss...

I would think that dropping to a lower grit instead of taking the edge to a hone would be less work, even with very light pressure.


Unorthodox, but it seems to have worked for you.

Originally Posted by joke1176

I would think that dropping to a lower grit instead of taking the edge to a hone would be less work, even with very light pressure.


Unorthodox, but it seems to have worked for you.

The blade micro chips very easily on low grits, which caused the problem in the first place. That's why I went with the 3m films, too; much more gentle on the blade than my diamond-based DMT's.

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

The blade micro chips very easily on low grits, which caused the problem in the first place. That's why I went with the 3m films, too; much more gentle on the blade than my diamond-based DMT's.

Interesting stuff. I wonder, now that you have it all cleaned up, what would happen if you took it back to the coarse stone again?

I had a Torrey that did the same thing, and I gave it to nun2sharp (after I reset the bevel and rehoned it about a dozen times).

He reset the bevel AGAIN, and no more crappy chippy edge. Makes me wonder about microchipping, and if it isn't just bad steel that's oxidized and fragile.

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

The blade micro chips very easily on low grits, which caused the problem in the first place. That's why I went with the 3m films, too; much more gentle on the blade than my diamond-based DMT's.

That's why I love the lapping films! They are velvety smooth to hone on, don't you think?

I use diamong lapping film (much different than the diamond hones), as it lasts a very long time before wearing out. I've tried a couple of different types of stone hones, but I quickly come back to the films for the ease of use, quick cutting, and the fantastically uniform edge it can put on a razor.

Give us a shave update when you use it!

Originally Posted by joke1176

Interesting stuff. I wonder, now that you have it all cleaned up, what would happen if you took it back to the coarse stone again?

I had a Torrey that did the same thing, and I gave it to nun2sharp (after I reset the bevel and rehoned it about a dozen times).

He reset the bevel AGAIN, and no more crappy chippy edge. Makes me wonder about microchipping, and if it isn't just bad steel that's oxidized and fragile.

It's a stainless steel blade, so I don't think it's oxidation that is the problem, I think it's just that stainless steel overall is a bit more brittle than regular old carbon steel. Supposedly the Hess isn't as brittle as some SS, though. Man, I'd hate to run across SS that *would* be considered brittle; this has been a big enough PITA as it is.

Originally Posted by Seraphim

That's why I love the lapping films! They are velvety smooth to hone on, don't you think?

I use diamong lapping film (much different than the diamond hones), as it lasts a very long time before wearing out. I've tried a couple of different types of stone hones, but I quickly come back to the films for the ease of use, quick cutting, and the fantastically uniform edge it can put on a razor.

Give us a shave update when you use it!

Yeah, they really are smooth to hone on, I just wish they would last longer. I have a web site bookmarked that sells the diamond lapping films (in fact, I think I got the site from one of your posts), but I ended up ordering the 3m films instead. I'm anxious to try the diamond films...If you get a chance, could you post a link to the films you use so I make sure to get the right ones?

The shaving test was a resounding success. Smoothest straight shave I've had so far. It would seem that the Hess 44's reputation as being one of the smoothest shavers out there is very well deserved. It's so far and above anything else in my rotation, I don't think I'll even *have* a rotation anymore; this is gonna be my daily shaver.

Edit: Forgot to mention... I have tried, and failed each time, to do the "fool's pass" from Xman's video on my upper lip. No blood has been drawn, but I have young sapplings for whiskers that grow out of super sensitive skin. So the pain level peaks before blood is drawn, luckily. The Hess allowed me to do a "fool's pass" on my upper lip. Well, it was a modified fools pass: it was XTG and ATG at the same time, but that's still more than I've been able to do with a straight prior to the Hess.

The epiphany moment with the Hess was just as great as when I used a professionally sharpened blade for the first time. It was *that* much better than anything else I'd used prior.

I had high hopes for it after Lyn and Glen both said it was a fantastic shaver. I wasn't disappointed at all.

I'd love to get a "My best shavers" list from the gurus like Lyn and Glen, so I can quit wasting time and money on the lesser blades, and start collecting top performers like the Hess. It really is that good.

congrats on the success! i believe the saying is theres more then one way to skin a cat. i always wondered where that one started but. good job.

Chee, how you doin' with that stainless steel Puma you've been working on?? Do you have a microscope to check for microchips? OMG, that was so annoying... You work like crazy to set a good bevel, look through the scope, and the edge is crap.

I'm anxious to hear how that goes, cause I have a regular carbon steel Puma 85 that I love. It was in first place as far as shaving comfort prior to the Hess. I picked it up off of ebay for around 20 bucks, removed the scales, sanded the bejesus out of it, polished it, cleaned up the scales, and now it's one of my favorites. I'm anxious to pick up a SS Puma now.

I'm hoping that your SS Puma gives you such good results!

i actually set the SS Puma aside for a bit recently as i wanted to get my W&B perfect. i shaved with it today and it was pretty good so i think my attention will go back to my Puma now that i have a couple smooth shavers (i also have a Boker that i like).

my next coarse of action with the Puma is to go back to the 4k and put in some time, then progress. but i am really going to concentrate on my pressure staying light. i normally keep it light but i think a bit more attention to it is in order. i am really hoping to get this one nice and smooth and sharp of coarse but i have heard they are really nice. i don't have any 3M films or anywhere near me to buy them but if all else fails i will try them, but i'm hoping my nortons do the job. i'm sure many others have honed an SS Puma on nortons and gotten great results so why not me. i'm still thinking about a DMT 325 for lapping and bevel setting though. the paper works good but is costly

i have asked for a 100x microscope for christmas so we'll see. i asked for a badger hair brush too so i'll probably only get one of the two. ha!

chee16 heres a link to the microscope many of us use. It isn't exactly in the same catagory as a nice brush, so both is a possibility. Even if one of the is both to and from yourself.

Radio shack microscope