Thread: Honing question

Originally Posted by Dups

So if I go back to the 1k to set the bevel then there's no risk of overhoning?

No, not if you are starting from square one.
If it was me I would re-read what the honing tutorials say just to refresh my memory here . The bevel should have the same scratch pattern all the way to the edge and be the same color under magnification. If it is not the same color you have more then one bevel. As Randy told me it is the most time consuming part of the process. Be patient and persistent. If you don't have magnification you should get one of those Radio Shack type hand held microscopes or a 30 power eye loupe like the ones Widget Supply sells. Makes life a lot easier.

If I didn't set the bevel right using the 1k then the 4k/8k pyramid won't do anything right? The bevel needs to be perfect before polishing?

Originally Posted by Dups

If I didn't set the bevel right using the 1k then the 4k/8k pyramid won't do anything right? The bevel needs to be perfect before polishing?

You set the bevel with the 1K and sharpen with the 4k. The 8 k and up does the polishing.

Yes I understand that but you just told me not to go back to the 1k...

Would it ruin (or overhone) my razor to go back to the 1k then the 4k ,8k and yellow coticule with water?

I want to set a good basis with the 1k

Originally Posted by Dups

Yes I understand that but you just told me not to go back to the 1k...

Would it ruin (or overhone) my razor to go back to the 1k then the 4k ,8k and yellow coticule with water?

I want to set a good basis with the 1k

Maybe I wasn't clear, yes set the bevel with the 1K and then try the pyramids as explained in the tutorial. The videos that Lynn and Heavydutysq made are very helpful too.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Maybe I wasn't clear, yes set the bevel with the 1K and then try the pyramids as explained in the tutorial. The videos that Lynn and Heavydutysq made are very helpful too.

So by going back to the 1k I'm sort of resetting the process which means no real chance of overhoning by hitting the 1k again? I'm sorry if I sound stupid but I'm just trying to understand how this work

Originally Posted by Dups

So by going back to the 1k I'm sort of resetting the process which means no real chance of overhoning by hitting the 1k again? I'm sorry if I sound stupid but I'm just trying to understand how this work

In resetting the bevel you are starting from square one. Do you have some sort of magnification ? You may not need to re-set the bevel. Does the razor pass the TNT? Check out the bevel with magnification. Is it a uniform scratch pattern from the top of the bevel to the edge ? Is it all the same color under light and magnification ? If the answer to all of those is yes you don't need to reset the bevel. If it is no to any then it hasn't been set yet. Once all of those are yes then go on to the 4/8 pyramid.

Stop worrying about OVERHONING. If you don't have a PERFECTLY established bevel at the coarse grits, all you are going to get going finer is a sore arm.

Magnification is your friend, with one of those cheap handheld microscopes you can VISUALLY see the bevel develop.

Certain razors are harder to hone. I have literally spent hours- and HUNDREDS of laps on a 1K Shapton Glass hone to establish a bevel on a new Friodur. It would have taken DAYS on a 4K Norton. Provided you are using normal pressure on the hone you aren't going to get a wire-edge until you are FAR beyond setting the bevel. At your experience level-FORGET about BACK-STROKING.

The ART of honing a razor cannot be explained easily. There is no progression of hones and number of strokes that will work with every blade. Remember if the bevel isn't properly shaped-the razor will not be useable.

Exactly!
It seems that new honers have a constant fear of overhoning to produce the dreaded wire edge. The thing is, UNDERHONING during the bevel setting phase is the most common mistake.
Bevel setting is the formation of a perfect "V" at the edge of the razor. Once that V is formed, all subsequent honing is done to progressively reduce the size of the scratch marks on the sides and apex of the V. Overhoning is causing the apex of the V to curl over. If you underhone, the edge of the razor is more like a U, rather than V, shape. Most honing mistakes are the result of polishing the sides of that U, which remains dull no matter how polished it might be.

The following is from the "Sharpening Instructions" included with every Shapton Glass Hone.

....The MOST important concept when using.... is achieving consistency at a given micron level BEFORE moving up to the next finer stone. At the 7.35 micron level( a 2000 grit Shapton),your tool should be perfectly shaped. It is INEFFECTIVE to attempt to reshape your tool at any finer micron level.....

"Sharpening is an attempt at perfection. The most interesting aspect of sharpening is the reflection of the infinite"

Again, not MY words. but directly form Shapton.