Thread: spyderco small pocket hone combo...

Originally Posted by napoleon

Are they already lapped as Robert says or do I need to lap them (which is fairly hard, as I read)?

spyderco advertises their hones as flat to a degree great for knifes some report success using them stock, you wont be able to lap a spydie creamic home with your couticle dont even attempt it , it took me many hours of lapping with a dmt 1200 to get mine flat as it could be, then i noticed that it took a whole lot more passes to finish a razor since i smoothed out the valleys left by the machine finishing they do at spyderco, they do produce a very fine edge if you are patient about honing, for a finisher i would use the ultrafine if it isnt flat send it back or return it and try another one with a good straight edge like a machinests rule, most use a dmt 320 to lap them but render the dmt almost useless n the process

Originally Posted by jwoods

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most use a dmt 320 to lap them but render the dmt almost useless n the process

I have a DMT D8C 325 with more than 85 hours of lapping time on the 2" x 8" Spyderco F's and UF's. Mine still works fine.

If you use too much pressure while lapping, you can tear diamonds from the nickel (most noticeably on the edges). As DMT says, "You need not exert extra pressure, let the diamonds do the work!".

I have one of those single grit. I wouldn't want to use a smaller one, that's for sure. I found one side to be flatter than the other the hard way. I lapped and lapped and lapped on one side. (they're not marked) Then checked the other which was much closer than what i had achieved with diamond plate on the other side.with some abrasive films cut to fit and leather topped strop box, i got a pocket razor factory, that's of course I doi like it because it is thin and small. My cot. is only 3/8 wider and 3/4 longer but makes a huge difference in utility imho

If you "bang up" a razor then your best bet is the 1000 grit sandpaper, not a hone unless it is a DMT. But I prefer sandpaper over a diamond hone to remove nicks and start a bevel. The spyderco hones simply are not good for that. I have all 3 grits but no longer use them. The Norton is much better for razors IMHO.

Lapping a Spyderco might be benifical but is not , usually, necessary.
A coticule would be completely inadequate for that job. Either use sandpaper or a DMT.

Just my $.02,

I have the pocket sized spyderco hones, but I got the separate medium and fine ones. On each one, I found that one side seemed flatter than the other, so I only used one side of each. For a while, all I had was those two and a Swaty. For maintaining a razor, they were just fine. And while you could do more serious honing on them, I wouldn't recommend it.

The size really does become an issue when you want to remove some serious metal; it's not the width, it's the length. In the process of trying to set a bevel on a razor I got so fed up that I went out and bought a King 1K stone for like $20. At that point, I was pretty much set to go. Yes, it will take longer/more strokes with such small stones, but it is doable; I would call that (a bench sized 1k, the med/fine pockets, a finisher) a complete setup for $20 + $35 + whatever my Swaty cost (I don't remember).

But, as with all starter sets, it was something to move up from. I have since added a BBW/coticule combo. My Spyderco's don't really see active use (though I do use the med to raise a slurry on the BBW). The only scenario I could see honing on the Sypderco's is if I wanted to take some stones on a trip or do a really really quick touchup that goes beyond the Swaty.