Thread: Chinese 12K after coticule

Using it with a creamy slurry considerably shortens the number of laps needed. As you go you can thin the slurry with water until it becomes very thin. Don't use anything of a lesser grit to form the slurry. A bit cut off the end of the same stone is ideal, but a fine small diamond plate is great.

Regards,
Neil.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I'm assuming you are referring to Old_School's post. Keep in mind, he noted that, as with all natural stones, the grit will vary. While 12K may be an average or approximate value, some may be higher or lower.

Knowing that many members have lower values, combined with information about where they got those particular stones may reveal trends about certain stocks/shipments, so I'd say that is just a helpful piece of information rather than a denial that there are high "12K Chinese" stones out there.

I am getting better shaves off the 8k Shapton than off the 12k Chinese... The Shapton polishes edges to mirrors, the Chinese produces satin surfaces. I'll have a coticule/bbw stone in my greedy hands soon, I can't wait to compare it to the Chinese.

I bought my Chinese stone from the Woodcraft website in early December 08.

I go from BBW to cot. to C12K. I enjoy the edges it gives. I have not yet tried going straight off the cot. I feel that if what I'm doing is working, there is no reason to try something else. I am not a believer in the idea that "if it ain't broke, break it and fix it better"

That is odd, Sparq - the chinese stone I am using at the moment gives exceptional mirror edges. It is very hard, dark slate-grey in colour with a few darker veins in it, and came from an ebay seller in Poland. Having said that, I have used lighter coloured ones with a homogeneous surface to equally good effect. I think they are exceptionally good value for money.

Like holli4pirating says, it would be helpful to know where the poor-performing stones are being bought.

Regards,
Neil.

I have had a Chinese 12k for about two months now and did a small amount of experimentation on carbon steel and stainless steel. The stone works best for carbon steel, best practice for stainless is here: http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...e-friodur.html

My progression for carbon blades is:

1) set bevel on 1200 Chinese
2) refine bevel on 4k Norton
3) polish on 8k norton
4) polish on coticule water only
5) polish on Chinese 12k water only ~ 100 laps

I am highly impressed with the results off the Chinese hone. CarrieM performs the final test on the blades and thinks they are scary sharp. Carrie does not want to run her straights over the Chinese due to her observations of my results.

I like to play with the HHT when I finish as just a game and not a test for shave ability. The hairs are popping much further away from my fingers after the Chinese hone. My shaves are much smoother using straights honed on the 12k.

My tests are not scientific, I am not sure of the grit on the Chinese hones other than what I ordered and what the box stated. I am not saying that this method is better than any other members here are using. I'm just saying that for the price I payed for the Chinese I am very satisfied with the results and push and pull put all of my carbon steel razors over this hone prior to their next service call.

Thanks for bring this thread to my attention Holli.

As RandyDance noted, for some reason edges feel duller after a few laps on the Chinese 12k, then improves. This made me give up on using it for a while.

For you guys that aren't getting the mirror finishes off of the Chinese 12k, are you using slurry? It seems like 50 laps with slurry, then 50 laps without has consistently given me great results off the 12k regardless of what kind of blade it is.

So far, the Chinese 12k is giving my Shapton 16k a run for it's money, but I'm sure that's just user error... time will tell.

Edit: When I do the laps on the 12k as described above, I can no longer see any scratch marks at all on the edge of a razor using my cheapo 100 X Radio Shack microscope.

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

For you guys that aren't getting the mirror finishes off of the Chinese 12k, are you using slurry? It seems like 50 laps with slurry, then 50 laps without has consistently given me great results off the 12k regardless of what kind of blade it is.

Edit: When I do the laps on the 12k as described above, I can no longer see any scratch marks at all on the edge of a razor using my cheapo 100 X Radio Shack microscope.

I've tried almost everything with the C12K but without much success. It leaves my blades more scratched than the Shapton (naked eye, 10x magnifier, 100x radio shack microscope). Perhaps I am very lucky and my Shapton is one of the better ones?

Originally Posted by sparq

I've tried almost everything with the C12K but without much success. It leaves my blades more scratched than the Shapton (naked eye, 10x magnifier, 100x radio shack microscope). Perhaps I am very lucky and my Shapton is one of the better ones?

LoL, that's gotta be it! Your shapton came from a better piece of ceramic boulder than mine did!

I have a coticle and a Chinese 12k and a Spyderco UF, they all take time to learn how to get the best results out of them, but isen't that what we love?

The C12k and UF are great stones and are worth getting for anyone starting out in straights, IMO.

I just have to say: reading these threads really make my hands tingle.I want to hone! And I want to do it for hours! This is the only hobby I ever had that I find much more interesting a year after, than when I started.I haven't read abou a singel hone that I don't want to own.....
Thank you all!

Kristoffer.