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  1. #11
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    I agree with Randy; sounds like poor or no contact. Try the magic marker test to be sure (color the bevel with a marker and see if it gets honed off on the entire blade).

    I would also suggest you use either your coticule with slurry or a coarser stone. The BBW may be more coarse than the coticule, but the coticule with slurry will still cut faster than the BBW with slurry. If that doesn't work, try something a little lower, like a 4k.

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    JimR (03-09-2009)

  3. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll give some thought to stones--I don't have any coarser stones, though...

  4. #13
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    The Blue is way too slow to do that kind of work.
    I suggest you raise a milky slurry on the Coticule and try with that. Any Coticule with some cutting power will be much faster than the Blue. The slurry should start to show grayish discoloration from steel entering the mix, within 10 to 20 laps.

    If the warp is severe, you may want to use pretty outspoken X's. On another note: all DA's I have ever seen, all had a smiling edge, which calls for the rolling X-stroke. I also second Randy's tip about watching the wave of slurry in front of the edge / running up the edge.

    Good luck,
    Bart.

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    JimR (03-09-2009)

  6. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
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    OK guys, I FINALLY got back to this one. I tried the marker test, ans dure enough I wasn't quite hitting on that toe. So I went back to the blue, but after twenty laps it still wasn't doing what I was hoping. So, taking a page from Bart's book, I went to the slurry+coticule.

    Holy MOLY! That was fast. About 100 laps and I am down to one last nick, the deepest of the lot. He'll take at least another hundred, I think, but...yeah, that was awesome, watching the edge smooth out under the microscope.

    Thanks for all the help--now it's just a matter of patience, and finishing up.

    I'll be back!

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