Thread: Progression with my equipment for W&B steel?

This is a possible double post, but I'll put it together.
I've currently been bested. I have a few Wade and Butchers which I've been dying to shave with, but the first one I've tried to hone I can't get sharp. The edge bevel starts to progress to sharp and the arm hairs start to cut smoother, but then I reach a wall where it isn't as sharp. I can't seem to get even close to the hair popping stage! I've restored a couple of other razor edges and touched a few more up, but this is my first wedge. So, is there a trick I should try? I'm still not an expert when it comes to going to the higher grits. I'd rather not go with multiple layers of tape since I like the idea of each razor having a standard amount of tape on the spine (currently one). I've lapped my hones, done the marker edge test and my stroke is even, but it won't get sharp enough! Do hollow grounds "pop" hair off differently then wedges? My current setup is 220/1k, 4k/8k (Nortons), BBW with slurry stone, coticule, dovo red and green paste.

Which brings me to my next question ?? . I've been doing the 1k - 8k progression for bevel to sharpen, bbw with slurry, coticule with water as my normal progression. Should I use the dovo pastes? If so, in what cases (since I think they're fairly aggressive)? Also, does that norton to natural progression seem like the best logically/chronologically? Sorry for the long post, but I've tried to find all this info and so far haven't seen it on the forums.

Before reading my response, answer this question. Did you do a test shave? If answer is yes, read on. If no, do a test shave and then come back.


















Is it a big 8/8 Meat Chopper? If so, I volunteer to hone it for you. If not...I'll still hone it for you if you can't manage to do it or find someone closer.

As to your last question, yes, yes they do. Took me a while to figure that out. Must be something to do with the thickness of the bevel or something.

Did you do the marker test? Mark the edge of the razor with a sharpie and do 5 laps on the 8k, see if all the black is gone from the edge.

I did try a shave test at one point. It was a no go. I don't think this one is quite an 8/8, but I'll measure them up because I'm curious . The marker test did indeed take the line off evenly. I know wedges are harder to hone due to the amount of metal that has to be taken off, but that steel is stubborn. I'll take another chance at it tonight (in 10 hours or so) since you took the time to answer my post.

Originally Posted by claytor

The edge bevel starts to progress to sharp and the arm hairs start to cut smoother, but then I reach a wall where it isn't as sharp.

This is the part that does not sound right. You seem to be going well, then the edge regresses. Possibilities that come to mind include:

- Are you overhoning?
- What is the condition of the blade - is your edge crumbling?

In what part of your progression is this happening?

Originally Posted by RayG

This is the part that does not sound right. You seem to be going well, then the edge regresses. Possibilities that come to mind include:

- Are you overhoning?
- What is the condition of the blade - is your edge crumbling?

In what part of your progression is this happening?

This is exactly what I am wondering, it does sound like one of the two. Good call Ray.

Originally Posted by RayG

- Are you overhoning?
- What is the condition of the blade - is your edge crumbling?

In what part of your progression is this happening?

Good points. I don't think I'm overhoning since a wiredge isn't felt. I've tried using a stropping motion for a few strokes to get rid of any wiredge which I can't feel and it didn't help. The crumbling edge is possible since I haven't checked it under my little RC microscope. I'll do that. There is no corrosion on the edge and there doesn't seem to be any temper issues.

The placement in this progression is at the 1k mark. Just for kicks ran it through 30 4k passes and 40 8k on the Norton's. Obviously the test shave failed. Like I said I'll check the microscope. Thanks for the advice so far!

IME following this routine here has paid off. Focusing on setting the bevel and checking it under magnification. Doing the TNT until it passes and then no more TNT but only the TPT . After the bevel setting I go with the 4/8 pyramids using the TPT mainly with the hair popping down on the arm or leg once in awhile as I go. For me shaving an arm or leg while touching the skin is a waste of time and hair.

I used to go from 4/8 to a coticule or another higher grit stone. Now I first get the razor shaving well off of the 4/8. I don't even attempt HHT until I strop before the shave. Then pass or fail HHT I shave. I find if it will pop hair off of the arm or leg while not touching the skin it will shave well.

I repeatedly check the edge with magnification as I go through the grits and through pyramids. This is what works for me. I am not giving the above as a tutorial. If you want to try this it is the method I have learned here on SRP and it may work for you.

Wedges are notoriously harder to hone then full, quarter, or half hollow. I have found it so. More metal to remove to get the bevel set. Those Sheffields seem to have some tough steel in them IME. Lynn has commented on honing wedges a few times in this collection of his observations on honing. You may find some useful info in there.
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Link broken.

Originally Posted by Leighton

Link broken.

I believe they are corrected now.