Thread: First time honing, and holy crap!

Originally Posted by dnjrboy

It may help to get a jewelers loupe. It is one of those one-eyed magnifiers. I find that my 10x gives me a really good idea of how the edge is coming along. You can see which areas of the blade are getting more or less time on the hone by checking out the scratch patterns.

Once the bevels look good, then I move to the 8k to get rid of scratches left by the 4k. But, sometimes I will polish the edge with the 8k for a couple of laps to see if there are areas on the bevel that are not getting polished.

Works for me. YMMV

+1 on the magnification. I don't hone without it. You can do all that you need to do with that Norton 4/8. OTOH, sending it to Lynn and picking up a couple of antique shop or ebay razors to learn to hone on is a better idea IMO.

With the razor honed by Lynn you will know what a truly sharp razor feels and looks like (magnification). Your main shaver will be there sharp and ready and you will be developing your skills on the other razors.

I look for full bladed razors with intact scales. I would recommend Solingen or USA full hollows which in my experience are easier to hone to shave ready then heavier grinds. If the description and photos are inadequate ask the seller questions before you buy it. Pay special attention to setting the bevel following the procedure that randydance goes by which is in the Wiki here along with the pyramids that follow.

Some razors I have had to set a bevel and then do 2 aggressive followed by 1 conservative pyramid and some with just 1conservative. Each one is different and you have to use the tests as you go. BTW, once the bevel is set do not use the TNT again. Go with the TPT. The setting of the bevel is the foundation so as randy says patience and persistence.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

+1 on the magnification. I don't hone without it. You can do all that you need to do with that Norton 4/8. OTOH, sending it to Lynn and picking up a couple of antique shop or ebay razors to learn to hone on is a better idea IMO.

With the razor honed by Lynn you will know what a truly sharp razor feels and looks like (magnification). Your main shaver will be there sharp and ready and you will be developing your skills on the other razors.

I look for full bladed razors with intact scales. I would recommend Solingen or USA full hollows which in my experience are easier to hone to shave ready then heavier grinds. If the description and photos are inadequate ask the seller questions before you buy it. Pay special attention to setting the bevel following the procedure that randydance goes by which is in the Wiki here along with the pyramids that follow.

Some razors I have had to set a bevel and then do 2 aggressive followed by 1 conservative pyramid and some with just 1conservative. Each one is different and you have to use the tests as you go. BTW, once the bevel is set do not use the TNT again. Go with the TPT. The setting of the bevel is the foundation so as randy says patience and persistence.

Thanks, I don't know what I would do without you guys...
I may try the magnification thing. It is too late to start practicing on a cheapie now. My poor dovo has fallen victim to newbie honing. I still don't have it right. How many pyramids are safe to do without overhoning the razor? I did just over 1 pyramid and was able to get it shaving again. At least on my arm. I don't dare take it to my face yet. It is not cutting well enough to get even a close shave. I'm frustrated but am willing to spend the time and effort getting it right as long as I know I'm not over doing it. I do not want to cause more harm than good here. Any thoughts? I'm not quite ready to ship it out to Ohio just yet. Jeremy-

Originally Posted by cessnabird

Thanks, I don't know what I would do without you guys...
I may try the magnification thing. It is too late to start practicing on a cheapie now. My poor dovo has fallen victim to newbie honing. I still don't have it right. How many pyramids are safe to do without overhoning the razor? I did just over 1 pyramid and was able to get it shaving again. At least on my arm. I don't dare take it to my face yet. It is not cutting well enough to get even a close shave. I'm frustrated but am willing to spend the time and effort getting it right as long as I know I'm not over doing it. I do not want to cause more harm than good here. Any thoughts? I'm not quite ready to ship it out to Ohio just yet. Jeremy-

Well that is where the magnification comes in. In order to see if the bevel is correct according to the description given by randydance i.e.,"The edge should be free of nicks and the bevel should go all the way to the edge. If you are using a hand held microscope then the bevel will appear as one color, if there are two bevels, old and new, then the light reflects off the bevel at different angles and appears as two colors. The scratch pattern should also be uniform for both the length and width of the bevel. When you have that then move on to the 4000, but not before."

Personally I need magnification to see all of that. Some here will tell you that they don't need magnification to set a bevel and I wouldn't argue the point. I am sure it has been done for centuries without it but I think it is miles better to have it and to use it.

Once I have the proper bevel then using the proper stroke and light pressure it usually doesn't take me more then a few pyramids if that to sharpen the razor well enough to pop hairs on my arm suspended above the skin and then strop and shave. I can't say how many it will take you. I haven't seen the razor and I haven't seen you hone. Give it a try but get something to look at the edge with . It is a big help IME.

Edit; Randy has told me that if you don't have a coarser stone you can set a bevel on a 4k it just takes longer so if that is all you have don't despair. You can still get there ,as Randy says, with patience and persistence.