Thread: Why isn't this working...

I didn't lose it by going to the cr0. I lost it by going back to the DMT for a few passes and then back to the blue + coticule.

I just felt like some parts of the edge weren't fully developed so...So would going back to the DMT without tape like before and then adding the two layers of tape again help to recreate that narrow bevel?

thanks!

JF

Originally Posted by Dups

I didn't lose it by going to the cr0. I lost it by going back to the DMT for a few passes and then back to the blue + coticule.

I just felt like some parts of the edge weren't fully developed so...So would going back to the DMT without tape like before and then adding the two layers of tape again help to recreate that narrow bevel?

thanks!

JF

Oh, I see.

In that case you don't need to waist too much steel. You have to grasp the following:
There's a line between the untaped bevel part and the taped bevel part. The untaped part sits on the back and the taped part sits in front. I guess that's easy enough to understand. Now, if you hone without tape, the division line will shift to the front, thereby enlarging the back part and reducing the front part. Honing with tape will achieve the opposite: the front part enlarges and the back part becomes smaller.

Everytime the front bevel becomes too wide for your liking, all you need to do is to hone without tape a bit. You don't need to completely remove the front bevel, only to reduce it again.

If you place a good directional light source behind you (such as a desk lamp aimed over your shoulder), you can easily spot the two parts by twisting the blade. Both parts reflect the light in different directions. As long as the narrow bevel is smaller than approximately 1mm, the razor should hone up very easily.

Just hone without tape till the front bevel meets those terms, reapply the tape, get the heel in line and repeat your Blue/ slurry - Yellow-water procedure.

I hope you're still having fun,
Good luck,
Bart.

It wouldn't be so much if it was easy :P

After the dmt without tape...Should I go back to the dmt for a few swipes with tape or go directly to the blue-yellow?

thanks,

JF

Originally Posted by Dups

It wouldn't be so much if it was easy :P

After the dmt without tape...Should I go back to the dmt for a few swipes with tape or go directly to the blue-yellow?

thanks,

JF

I don't really know. It depends on the condition of the front bevel. You said you messed it up on the DMT somehow... Maybe 10 of your absolutely very best laps ever, and next a thorough check with the TPT and/or HHT. (Is that heel up to par yet?) Only proceed to the Blue if everything checks out fine. If I know one thing about honing, it's that the slightest imperfections only become more obvious later in the progression, and that whishful thinking gets punished invariably. I have found that out the hard way.

Good luck,
Bart.

Just redid the whole thing. Unfortunatley while I was honing it I banged the edge on the stone and cause a big chip so I had to spent a lot of time on the dmt to fix that. After getting rid of that I added some tape and did some more passes on the dmt followed by the blue and then yellow.

THe razor shaved decent but not great. At this point I guess it's safe to assusme that the smaller bevel is set if I got a shave out of it..Should I go back to the blue with tape to achieve that extra sharpness or?

thanks again,

JF

Originally Posted by Dups

Just redid the whole thing. Unfortunatley while I was honing it I banged the edge on the stone and cause a big chip so I had to spent a lot of time on the dmt to fix that. After getting rid of that I added some tape and did some more passes on the dmt followed by the blue and then yellow.

THe razor shaved decent but not great. At this point I guess it's safe to assusme that the smaller bevel is set if I got a shave out of it..Should I go back to the blue with tape to achieve that extra sharpness or?

thanks again,

JF

Yes I would go back to the Blue for some additional light laps on thin slurry. Don't wash down the slurry and don't allow it to become too dry. If that doesn't improve things, try 10 laps on CrO before stropping 60 laps on clean leather. The importance of the first stropping session is often underestimated.

Bart.

I did give the razor about 40 passes on the line followed by about 60 on leather.

Hey Dups, still having fun with that tortoise, eh???

I though of one thing, perhaps it might help you out. Regarding taping the spine, I thought that once tape had been introduced to the honing cycle that you must continue taping the spine throughout all honing, with the exception of the final stropping before a shave. Can anyone shed any light on this?

Hey Ryan,

I think I finally got it where I want it to be. I used Bart's idea about setting a smaller bevel to work on. For numerous reasons the bevel on that Dovo is huge so it doesn't help in setting a good edge on it. I did loads of passes on the dmt without tape then added 2 layers of tape did about 20 then moved to the BBW and Coticule followed by 14 passes on the cr0 paddle strop.

Passes the HHT test with ease now. Did you finally figure out that Friodur or yours? It sure sounds like a nice razor. It might be time for me to experiment with a larger blade..

i have just tyed bbw with slurry light 50 then yellow slurry 50 must be realy light slurry then 50 yellow with water. linen and leather.I've just done that i no howard at perfect edge recomends that and he likes the shave you get from that so i just gave it a try a bit concerned that it might not be as sharp but to be onest it worked for me this time and the shave was realy smooth and i liked it especialy as i like honing with slurry it gives great feedback. so no worse i would say A1 try it see if you can feel the differance.