Thread: Critique My Honing Method!

On a 3" wide hone, you need to keep the full blades edge on the hone for the full stroke.

You are letting the heel of the blade only receive part of the honing. The toe is being honed more.
Eventually, you will find the blade has a narrower width at the toe than the heel.

The X pattern stroke you are using only works on hones that are about 1.5 to 2" wide.

Secondly, I suggest you invest in a 10X jewellers loupe or some form of magnifying glass so that you can see if there is a clearly formed V on the edge.

The rest of what you are doing looks fine to me.

Hope this helps and good for you for having the guts to share.

Originally Posted by English

On a 3" wide hone, you need to keep the full blades edge on the hone for the full stroke.

You are letting the heel of the blade only receive part of the honing. The toe is being honed more.
Eventually, you will find the blade has a narrower width at the toe than the heel.

The X pattern stroke you are using only works on hones that are about 1.5 to 2" wide.

Secondly, I suggest you invest in a 10X jewellers loupe or some form of magnifying glass so that you can see if there is a clearly formed V on the edge.

The rest of what you are doing looks fine to me.

Hope this helps and good for you for having the guts to share.

Wait...I thought we had this argument before and X-Stroke was good on 3" hones too.....

Originally Posted by Slartibartfast

Wait...I thought we had this argument before and X-Stroke was good on 3" hones too.....

There has been an agreement of disagreement and it should probably be left at that!

Originally Posted by kelbro

Sorry, had to look that word up and after reading the definition, I couldn't bring myself to watch your video.

Wait, does that mean you are unwilling to watch a video WITHOUT such undertones?

Thats very light handed IMO
I'd always take the second hand to guide the knife better but without pressure
and use the beautiful wide stone for straight strokes like English said.

Originally Posted by English

On a 3" wide hone, you need to keep the full blades edge on the hone for the full stroke.

You are letting the heel of the blade only receive part of the honing. The toe is being honed more.
Eventually, you will find the blade has a narrower width at the toe than the heel.

The X pattern stroke you are using only works on hones that are about 1.5 to 2" wide.

Lynn and many other honemeisters would disagree.

Let's try and keep this on topic and help out a new honer here guys.....

He is using an X stroke, so help him from there....

IMHO he is also doing a very nice even light stroke...
Following all the prescribed rules for the stone, it seems that the razor just needs a little more 4k work I however can't feel the blade...
When the edge is popping arm hair from toe to heel at the 4k level or at the conservative Pyramid level then you are ready for 20 light laps 8k and on to the 12k if you wish....

Jigme: You might read through this thread about the same stone...

http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...tml#post355832

i did watch first part of the video.
I think you are using pyramid method that is why you are moving from 4 to 8k and so on.
I am not sure what Lynn said exactly about pyramid honing but this is what i think
.
1 st you have to set bevel. what i mean you need to work on 4k side until you get a good bevel
then you go 8 k side.
i think now you can do what you were doing.
Below is how i do hone

i work on 4 k side until i get bevel set then i move to 8 k .(I FIND OUT NEW NORTON 8 K IS PRONE TO OVERHONE AFTER 25 STROKES I KNOW WHY LAST 3 RAZOR I HAVE HONE I HAD OVERHONE PROBLEMS.)
Your strokes are excellent .
Some one already mention have loop at least 60 x and check the edge.it will help you on learning process.
good luck

Originally Posted by Utopian

I am completely dependent upon my stereomicroscope for edge assessment. It's a crutch I know, but it allows me to know exactly how my honing is going and it ensures that I don't waste time going up to higher grits until I have that bevel fully set.

+1 on the microscope. It is an important part of my honing arsenal.

Nice presentation Jigme . Not criticism but comparison, For one thing I find it easier to hone standing up. I also hone across my body from right to left rather then with my arm going away from my body and back again.

I found that letting my arm hang naturally from the shoulder my counter top is about level with the bend in my elbow. Less fatiguing. You mentioned going off of the edge of the hone at the end of the stroke going away from you. I wonder if honing side to side rather than back and forth would give you more control ? It does for me.

Watching your video reminded me of why I sold my combo and bought single grit Nortons. Much more efficient to do the pyramids. More $ but a lot more stone. I use a spray bottle rather then a cup. I am more liberal with the water than you are. I keep the stone wet with plenty of liquid at all times. That 4k drinks it up and a spray bottle is more efficient IME.

I also do the x pattern on 3" stones and so far so good. Like Utopian I wash the coarser grit off before going to the higher grit whether on a pyramid or progressive honing. I am honing in front of my kitchen sink so access to water is easy. I rinse he hone off every do often to clear residual swarf. Good luck with your honing.

Thanks for dressing up for the vid.

Your honing style looks good but you are starting the pyramids too soon, if that is the way you want to hone. Before you go to the pyramids you need to have a bevel that is cutting hairs on your arm clean and smooth before moving to a finer hone.

On your 4k hone (a 1 k would be faster) hold one side of the blade flat on the hone(if the blade is not warped - see marker test) and move the blade in circles for a period of time, like 60 seconds. Use a bit of pressure. Flip the blade over and repeat on the other side. Keep the hone flooded with water and keep the metal removed from collecting on the surface of the hone. Rub it off with your finger or lap it if it is stuck into the surface. Do around 10 strokes edge leading ( normal honing) then do a thumb nail test. Use very light pressure for this part. The edge should cut into the nail smoothly and evenly along the length of the edge. If not go back to the circles and apply a little more pressure on the area that feels smooth on you nail. Once you get the edge to 'bit' into your nail smooth and clean for the entire length go back and perform a few more circles, like 30 seconds per side to repair possible damage from TNT. 10 normal edge leading strokes and check sharpness by testing on arm hairs. If it needs more work do 15 seconds of circles then 10 strokes normal until hairs cut clean and smooth. The circles at this stage prevent a wire edge from forming. Once hairs cut clean and smooth you can go to your pyramid process to start polishing and refining the edge. Be sure arm hairs cut clean and smooth after the pyramid before going to the 12k. After cutting hairs at the end of your bevel setting stage you are just refining the edge to cut smoother. Good luck!

p.s. hope you dress more comfortably when honing off camera.