Thread: american hone 3 line quality

I have just won a barber hone called american hone 3li ne quality it is as new and never been used i miust say all the papers and instruction are as new. Has any one ever used on of these? annd if so do i hone on the side that has logo is engraved on it. and whats the best way to lap these type of hones i have dmt c but i've heard not to use on barbers hone as they are very hard?

Originally Posted by gary haywood

I have just won a barber hone called american hone 3li ne quality it is as new and never been used i miust say all the papers and instruction are as new. Has any one ever used on of these? annd if so do i hone on the side that has logo is engraved on it. and whats the best way to lap these type of hones i have dmt c but i've heard not to use on barbers hone as they are very hard?

Just found out that logo side is slightly finer so that answers that question.

I have lapped barber hones on my DMTC, even though it is recommended not to. I used very light pressure and kept water running over the surfaces to wash away the slurry.

I too have lapped barber hones on the D8C and like holli4pirating I always do it under the tap with water running regardless of what it is. I know you're in the UK and I'm not recommending you go to the expense but the D8XX will eat a barber hone for breakfast and call for seconds. The D8C will do it but depending on the barber hone it took time and patience. I would do it for fifteen minutes then give it a rest and come back and do fifteen more.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I too have lapped barber hones on the D8C and like holli4pirating I always do it under the tap with water running regardless of what it is. I know you're in the UK and I'm not recommending you go to the expense but the D8XX will eat a barber hone for breakfast and call for seconds. The D8C will do it but depending on the barber hone it took time and patience. I would do it for fifteen minutes then give it a rest and come back and do fifteen more.

This one has never been used it literaly looks brand new there no chips or anything so it should not be to bad . Could i start with some wet and dry then dmtc to finish if so what grit would you recomend i was think p600.Also jimmy i'm like your selve and realy do go to my belgiums for honing even though i own other hones how and when do you use your barber hones. I no there to be used for touch ups this one has a ultra fine side and fine on the other. Can it be used after coti to add extra keeness etc

Originally Posted by gary haywood

This one has never been used it literaly looks brand new there no chips or anything so it should not be to bad . Could i start with some wet and dry then dmtc to finish if so what grit would you recomend i was think p600.Also jimmy i'm like your selve and realy do go to my belgiums for honing even though i own other hones how and when do you use your barber hones. I no there to be used for touch ups this one has a ultra fine side and fine on the other. Can it be used after coti to add extra keeness etc

You could start with 600 grit and see how it goes. Depending on how flat it is, you might want to go to a lower grit, like 320 or even lower.
Do the instructions specifically declare that the two sides have a different grit? The Swaty Alumin is the only Swaty type hone that I know of that has different grits on each side.

Originally Posted by gary haywood

This one has never been used it literaly looks brand new there no chips or anything so it should not be to bad . Could i start with some wet and dry then dmtc to finish if so what grit would you recomend i was think p600.Also jimmy i'm like your selve and realy do go to my belgiums for honing even though i own other hones how and when do you use your barber hones. I no there to be used for touch ups this one has a ultra fine side and fine on the other. Can it be used after coti to add extra keeness etc

The D8XX is 120 grit and the D8C is 325. You could start with a really low grit and see how it goes and then move up to a higher grit to smooth it out. Just because the barber hone is new doesn't mean it is flat. Take a straight edge to it and check it in front of a light. I have a mint NOS long Swaty that has never been used and it is way out of flat.

Before I had other fine grit hones I used to use a Swaty with water to finish after the Norton 4/8 and it worked nicely. I have some barber hones from various mfgs but to be honest I haven't used them. Lynn, Chris L, Utopian and of course Sticky are the guys that really know the barber hones. Others too undoubtedly but those fellows right off the top of my head.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I have some barber hones from various mfgs but to be honest I haven't used them.

A suggestion for those of you who have barber hones you haven't used...

Send them to me!

Alternatively, when you are honing up a newly acquired old razor and have gotten it to the 8k level, dig out those unused hones and do a few passes on them and see what they do. You can tell a lot by feel, sound, and especially by magnification. It's a great way to get a preliminary sense of the hone with absolutely minimal time commitment. I've even done it on hones that I have only partially lapped. If the hone turns out to be detrimental to the edge, which occasionally happens, at worst it can get sorted out with a few more strokes on the 4k.

Don't abandon those hones!

Originally Posted by Utopian

You could start with 600 grit and see how it goes. Depending on how flat it is, you might want to go to a lower grit, like 320 or even lower.
Do the instructions specifically declare that the two sides have a different grit? The Swaty Alumin is the only Swaty type hone that I know of that has different grits on each side.

On the paper work ie instruction it says the logo side is finer than the other side.