Thread: regular blades

good post i thought the same thing so long as the egde is touching and it feels sticky sharp it must be i think we al like to see a nice even bevel but so long as it shaves thats the main thing.

Originally Posted by Rosco

I have quoted from the last part of your post, because I don't know how to highlight it in a different colour.
As long as the marker is being removed at the very, very edge, then the bevel is set. Whether this is visible wit the naked eye,at 30x or even 100x is irrelevant.
It's that old chestnut about less is more again. Once you sharpen the very edge, anything more is just a waste of steel. It is, after all, only the very edge of the blade that will take an edge.

Connor

First off, to color the text use the icon next to the dropdown text size box, after you highlight the text you want colored, and pick a color. As far as the bevel being set when the marker is gone, I have to agree that you have, at that point, technically set the bevel but I don't agree that you are ready to move on to the next hone. The reason I say this is because the edge still might not be sharp at that point and if it is not you will have to reach sharpness with the next finer stone which will take longer than if sharpness is reached before you move on IMHO.

So long as the maker is being removed then you no for sure the bevel is being set i think he would of ment and as i said early so long as it is feeling sharp i do most of the work on the 1k untill it feels sharp! then very little on 4k 8k 12k the blade should actualy give you a shave at 1k stage but it will feel very rough 4k 8k 12k will refine and just smooth things out as we all no i somtimes test shave after 1k and you'd be surprised if bevel is set correctly how well it can shave i've tryed it.

The marker test should be the first thing performed when honing. It tells you what parts of the blade are getting honed and if the blade is warped. Keeping the blade flat on the hone is only the starting point. You need to modify your x strokes, rolling x strokes or other methods to get the entire bevel honed. You will know when you are using the correct stroke when all of the marker has been removed. At that point your method of running the blade down the hone should be the same for all honing on that blade.

I have seen some blades of which some were NOS where the first 1/4 inch from the toe, one one side, is not touching the hone. If you watch some of the vids showing how the blades are ground (I think DOVO has one) you can easily understand how that can happen. This feature of the blade as well as smiles and warped blades and other previous honed blade characteristics will direct you to the proper honing stroke to use based on the marker test. The alternative is to completely re-set the bevel, straighten the blade (do incorrectly will break the blade, correctly will reduce the hardness) or move to a different blade and pass that one along.

Good luck.