Thread: Aerodynamics

I tend to agree with Joe.
You are likely overhoning.

The problem is that the blade is best when almost overhoned.
I have a process that works well - I hone on the Norton 4k/8k and don't worry too much obout a bit of overhoning. I backhone for about 10 strokes on 6 micron graphite with my HandAmerican Leather on ScarySharp base. Then I move to the .5 micron CrO2 for maybe 20-30 passes. That seems to remove any wire edge created by possible overhoning.

This works great and has even improved blades that I receive from Lynn. They aren't necessarily any better cutting, but are very comfortable to me. I have a pretty tough beard and sensitive Scandanavian skin.

The ScarySharp base is also great to make sure that the Norton Stone is flat.

Bob

Well I got the microscope a few days ago. I examined each razor I had. They were all well overhoned. One in particular was overhoned and had wicked "nicks" in it. Well nick isn't the right word as the "nick" was deep and wide. I think that blade is toast. Maybe with my 4,000 and patience I could get it out, or I could buy a 1,000 grit stone. I think I'll just buy another razor for the money. It was a great razor though, I could tell the steel quality was incredible. The other two were overhoned badly and using the microscope I was able to get them shaving even better than before. I'm not sure where to stop now. I wasn't able to get every nick out but they are tiny and the shave is fantastic. I used a Swaty hone and then the .5 after lots and lots of 8,000 strokes. For some dumb reason having the microscope makes me hone better. Each stroke is now smooth and slow. I can feel the blade suck to the hone now, which I assume is a good sign to stop honing. Tonights shave was way better than any before in my life. Even a DE pales in comparison. So a few questions I am left with:

If I am honing out a nick would I use a circular pattern, back hone, or hone? Would I use pressure? I have microscope questions too but I think I'll go post them in a thread on microscopes I think I remember. BTW...thanx guys again. It really is exciting.

For a considerable nick the circular pattern is the best. Try 20 on each side on the 4K until the nick is out . Then do regular honing on the 4K to establish the edge, followed by the 8K and stropping on plain leather..

Thats an interesting approach. I believe David Uthe may use a similar process. The key of course is to use the back honing at the end. Have you used your microscope to veryif the existence of a wire edge before you start the back honing and have you then seen a change after the backhoning?

Originally Posted by Bob Cross

I tend to agree with Joe.
You are likely overhoning.

The problem is that the blade is best when almost overhoned.
I have a process that works well - I hone on the Norton 4k/8k and don't worry too much obout a bit of overhoning. I backhone for about 10 strokes on 6 micron graphite with my HandAmerican Leather on ScarySharp base. Then I move to the .5 micron CrO2 for maybe 20-30 passes. That seems to remove any wire edge created by possible overhoning.

This works great and has even improved blades that I receive from Lynn. They aren't necessarily any better cutting, but are very comfortable to me. I have a pretty tough beard and sensitive Scandanavian skin.

The ScarySharp base is also great to make sure that the Norton Stone is flat.

Bob

Regarding the nicks in the blade. If the nick is 1/4 the depth of the bevel or greater than you would make better use of your time by using either a 800 grit stone or the 4000 grit stone. I usually stay on the 800 grit until all the nicks are gone then I move to the 4000 stone. If the nick is not very deep then I use the 4000 stone until the nick is gone then I move to the 8000 stone.

I doubt that the razor is toast unless the nick is substantially greater than the width of the bevel. Use an 800 stone to remove the nick or go back to a 320-400 grit piece of sandpaper, wet/dry used wet, layed over the biggest hone you have. 100-200 roundtrip laps should remove the nick. Then on to the next finer stone.

If the blade feels like there is suction then you are on the right track. It is not a sign to quit. At that point you start with either the hanging hair test or the thumb test. Just be consistent in the usage. When the razor passes the hanging hair test, easily, then I give it a shave test. I usually go back and hone some more after that. I generally have to shave test three times before it is so sharp that I have to pay attention when I start shaving else I will cut myself ( almost to sharp).

Pressure. Yes you have to use pressure to remove a nick or els you will be at it for a long time. About three lbs is what I use and then I lighten up at the end on the coarse hone. I only use a feather light touch on the 8000 or finer hones and then only at the end stage. Usually after it passes the hanging hair test. This does not mean that I use three lbs of pressure on the 4000-8000-12000-0.5 p-asted strop. I will use 1-2 lbs of pressure after the nick is gone and finish with a feather touch the last 10 laps or so on each of the finer stones until the razor passes the hanging hair test. Then a feather touch after that.

Hope this helps,

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Well I got the microscope a few days ago. I examined each razor I had. They were all well overhoned. One in particular was overhoned and had wicked "nicks" in it. Well nick isn't the right word as the "nick" was deep and wide. I think that blade is toast. Maybe with my 4,000 and patience I could get it out, or I could buy a 1,000 grit stone. I think I'll just buy another razor for the money. It was a great razor though, I could tell the steel quality was incredible. The other two were overhoned badly and using the microscope I was able to get them shaving even better than before. I'm not sure where to stop now. I wasn't able to get every nick out but they are tiny and the shave is fantastic. I used a Swaty hone and then the .5 after lots and lots of 8,000 strokes. For some dumb reason having the microscope makes me hone better. Each stroke is now smooth and slow. I can feel the blade suck to the hone now, which I assume is a good sign to stop honing. Tonights shave was way better than any before in my life. Even a DE pales in comparison. So a few questions I am left with:

If I am honing out a nick would I use a circular pattern, back hone, or hone? Would I use pressure? I have microscope questions too but I think I'll go post them in a thread on microscopes I think I remember. BTW...thanx guys again. It really is exciting.

Addendum:

Motion. Some people use the circular pattern and some the standard straight honing pattern, not the X pattern. I use the standard straight honing pattern. The circular pattern may be faster. I have not tried it.
My goal is consistency in the motion so as to have a consistent, uniform scratch pattern.

Just my two cents,