Thread: ch.5 cr ox

I have powder cr.ox from hand american and this time aplied it dry straight on to brand new dovo strop and it went on realy easily i'd normal mix with neats foot oil. I have to say it seem s to work alot better dry aplied any one else tryed this i have stropped several razors and it realy feel more efective and the shaves were realy good with the help of my naniwas

be careful with breathing chr02.

Gary,
This may be the experiment that proves the point that 'less is more'. I remember reading about and watching video's that show putting X patterns down the strop and spreading very lightly with the Crox and explaining that it is better if you don't put a lot of material on the strop. My first home made hard strop was a disaster because I didn't follow those instructions. Using it actually dulled the blade. I then made a new one and applied very sparingly. Worked much better. This experiment, however, is very interesting in the fact that you have literally eliminated the binder that hold the compound on the surface. So here are a couple of questions. How liberally did you apply the powder? How hard did you rub it in to bind it to the poures in the leather? When you use it, do you see particles falling to the floor? Do you use this before your final hone or after? Are you applying the Crox to the smooth side or the rough side?

Sorry for all the questions, but I do find this very intreguing, and have been looking for these answers for quite some time.

Thanks,

Ray

When applying the dry powder to leather you can smear it on liberally. The trick is to use a clean cloth or paper towel and wipe off all the excess until it gets difficult to wipe off any more. Thus, if you put too much on at first, it doesn't matter. It just gets wiped off.

Here is "Dave's Way" from a knife sharpening site:
Japanese Knife Sharpening

Originally Posted by rayman

Gary,
This may be the experiment that proves the point that 'less is more'. I remember reading about and watching video's that show putting X patterns down the strop and spreading very lightly with the Crox and explaining that it is better if you don't put a lot of material on the strop. My first home made hard strop was a disaster because I didn't follow those instructions. Using it actually dulled the blade. I then made a new one and applied very sparingly. Worked much better. This experiment, however, is very interesting in the fact that you have literally eliminated the binder that hold the compound on the surface. So here are a couple of questions. How liberally did you apply the powder? How hard did you rub it in to bind it to the poures in the leather? When you use it, do you see particles falling to the floor? Do you use this before your final hone or after? Are you applying the Crox to the smooth side or the rough side?

Sorry for all the questions, but I do find this very intreguing, and have been looking for these answers for quite some time.

Thanks,

Ray

I have been using this powder form for three years i have been using it on tony miller paddle strop i have also used it on and old hanging strop before.

I took my little dovo strop outside and i sprinkled a little powder over the leather which is soft cowhide and has not been treated with any strop conditioner the powder i seriously rubbed it in and the leather obsorbed it very good and even.when i mixed with neats foot oil and aplied to my last strop its realy hard to spread but apling dry alot easier. I then took some kitchen roll and rubed it over strop to remove what i could untill there was just a little residue on kitchen roll. Whilst in use no powder was coming of strop.
I finished on my 12k naniwa and did 15 laps and it felt good alot better than paddle strop and easier. I would not touch up on cr.5 i would go back to 12k and then ch.5 for refresh for future touch ups. but after honing i would always finish on cr.ox.

I have tryed dry on paddle strop and mixed with neats. Dry i think works better and cuts quiker because of the slight blackness left on leather when mixed with neats oil hardly any traces of black metal particles can be seen i find when dry its easier to spread easily obsorbed if you applt to much you can rub of and my blade glides better with much more feed back. Hand american .5 in the the large tub is what i have.

Ray i aply to smooth cow hide i get my strops throught the trade i have the cotton backed and leather they retail 37 pounds i got mine for aprox 17pounds if you want i think i could get you just leather for about aprox 15pounds. I use tony millers litigo and cowhide for my normal stropping i went be pasting them no way.

Thanks Gary,
This information is exactly what I was looking for. Makes a lot of sense now. One interesting thing is last week a 75 year old friend of mine came over and handed me this box. He said, maybe you can use this. When I opened it there were 7 pieces of red latigo leather 9-1/2" wide x 30" long, and have two gromets in the top. I asked him where they came from and he said he use to use them in the 60's and 70's as an insurance salesman. I guess they separated policies. I am not sure what I will do with them yet, but they are so soft and supple that maybe I can have a strop made from one of them.

Thanks again for the info.

Ray

Back a little over a year ago I got a Hand American flat bed hone and applied the chrome ox dry to the felt before I read Josh Earl's tutorial. He said less is more and don't make it look like a pool table but it was too late. Around that time I got a Livi loom strop and I guess the Mastro didn't read the tutorial either 'cause the linen looks like a pool table. Both of those work just spiffy. I also applied some of the Hand American liquid chrom ox to a Tony Miller paddle. I used Josh's less is more technique and it works just as well as the pool table approach.

I aply so its light green just so long as its well rubed in it should'nt matter but not caked on.Cr.ox sure does the trick though

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Back a little over a year ago I got a Hand American flat bed hone and applied the chrome ox dry to the felt before I read Josh Earl's tutorial. He said less is more and don't make it look like a pool table but it was too late. Around that time I got a Livi loom strop and I guess the Mastro didn't read the tutorial either 'cause the linen looks like a pool table. Both of those work just spiffy. I also applied some of the Hand American liquid chrom ox to a Tony Miller paddle. I used Josh's less is more technique and it works just as well as the pool table approach.

I personally don't use the Crox, I use Linde A....But I have tried both the "less is more" method and the "just slather it on like paint" method with a couple different strops and have yet to see a noticeable difference in either method.

Just my 2 cents...