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    I've just done some serious circles and back and forth on dmt1200 to speed things up a bit then gone back naniwa 1k and it as cracked it that part now grips my thumb where as before thumb slid freely plus marker has gone took a long while though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leighton View Post
    But never two, I never use two layers...
    Never say never

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    what would be the cause of the problem ? would it of been the spine not being right or just the bevel needed more honing untill the edge reached the hone

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary haywood View Post
    what would be the cause of the problem ? would it of been the spine not being right or just the bevel needed more honing untill the edge reached the hone
    IME & IMO all that damage is due to someone lifting the spine from the hone and honing it that way. I don't think they had electrical tape back then. And thus, you get all sorts of inconsistencies and problems.

    Research: And apparently they did not! 1946 was when it became commercially available. Also, I remember reading a post by Lynn stating he thinks the taping thing started with TZ.

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    I never use tape but its weird how just one section could be apain in the arse the good thing is i picked up on it but it took a long time to remove the marker on the very edge the bevel was formed but the very cutting edge in one section was just not making contact at least if i come across this problem again i will have a good idea how to tackle it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gary haywood View Post
    I never use tape but its weird how just one section could be apain in the arse the good thing is i picked up on it but it took a long time to remove the marker on the very edge the bevel was formed but the very cutting edge in one section was just not making contact at least if i come across this problem again i will have a good idea how to tackle it.
    I normally see that problem on smiling blades. Not sure if I ever encountered it on a straight edge. The guy probably used a narrow hone and put more pressure on the middle section while honing the razor like a knife. Usually I use a 220 grit stone to establish the bevel. I consider that work restoration, not honing btw.

    At least, thats my semi-informed opinion anyway.

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