Thread: Antoni Tadross - Miniscule frown

if your blade's heel and tip touches the stone middle doesn't then tape the middle portion of your blade and continue hone on 1 k untill you will have edge on straight line. you made need change tape very often. just don't get scare it will get evened up. when you tape middle make sure length of the tape is matching the length of the dull length of the blade.
gl.

With this thread and this one in the honing section, you're asking the same question in two places. It might be better if all of the discussion/help could be consolidated in one thread.

Could a moderator consolidate these or close one or anything else to help out?

Good idea Ron
The threads are all here now,,

I have a keen kutter that shaves perfectly well which I have been comparing my tadross to, as they are both spike points and nearly the same grind (as far as my eye can tell). The problem is that the middle of the blade does not touch, and even with x-strokes and rolling the blade the heel and toe still sharpen faster then the middle. Thus, as I stated in another thread that was moved here I have begun breadknifing the razor on my 400/800 (around there it's a coarse/fine stone without actual ratings) alum oxide stone.

It has evened up a little bit but it's looking like I'm going to have to do a bit more then use the same stone to set the bevel again. I do not have any coarser stones, the next up being my norton 4k/8k.

Restoration...
I am going to go against the grain here, as most people are going to say that with enough time, and talent you can correct the edge on the 4k which technically is correct... In reality it will take hours and hours of tedious honing, which you will get sick of doing, and add pressure, and most likely wind up right back in the same place you started....

Doing razor restoration requires different tools then simple honing....

I was actually going to set the bevel on my low grit aluminum oxide. It is a not a whet stone, requiring a good lubing of 3-in-1 oil every now and then, but in the very low grit range. Are you saying I will need some kind of grinding done or something?

Alright, after some more breadknifing I seem to have gotten the Tadross straighter then it was - although now the toe of the blade seems to be a little bit higher then the heel and middle, in a sort of smiling fashion. I've given it about sixty strokes on each side of aluminum oxide, varying between swooping and regular x. After I seemed to be producing an adequate bevel I moved it to the norton with around fifty on each side, then up to my coticule for around twenty to twenty five. After this I honed on my chinese for a bit, around thirty strokes back and forth, then started a small slurry and did around twenty finishing strokes. <=== On the chinese does the slurry drop the grit, wouldn't want that if it does?

It seems to have a decent edge, and has a gritty but not jagged pull on my thumbnail, it also pops hair but feels a bit rough when doing so. The edge is extremely thin towards the toe, and it will not pop hairs like the heel and middle. I'm not sure if I should re-hone or what at this point. Also, I have yet to strop the blade but was planning thirty on untreated canvas and forty on leather. Would using a different stroke or going back and just focusing on the toe until it's evened out with the rest of the edge work?

Both my Tadross and Kutter are now unshavable, both only popping hairs. I am not sure if it something in my honing technique or not. I've listed the stones I have and go through a progression of around twenty or so strokes on the norton, twenty on the coticule, and a finish of ten no slurry on the chinese and ten without.

Should I be using a pyramid technique or something different?

so you dulled the other razor too?
presuming you haven't done anything drastic with it here's what you should do
- stick to the keen kutter and the norton
- use pyramids to make it shave
- once it shaves satisfactory use the coticule say 10-30 very light laps with water only - that will improve the edge. alternatively do 100 laps on the chinese hone with water only.

- work on the tadross next


this is not a newbie thread so i'm moving it to the honing section

Okay, I will try this. I didn't do anything with the kutter besides the strokes I mentioned.