Thread: Filarmonica Doble Temple 7/8

I bought one of the Filarmonica Doble Temple 7/8 from Classic Shaving and since that time have struggled to get it to provide a smooth shave. Yesterday in looking at it under the scope I found that the top quarter and bottom quarter looked good, but no matter what I did I got no change to the middle part of the blade. In looking at it the blade is in an arc buldging toward the middle. I have followed every kind of piramid regemin that I know about but nothing seems to work. I can shave the hairs on my arm with the bottom part of the blade but the middle just won't get sharp.

A while back someone out here stated their Filarmonica Doble Temple 7/8 was not straight. But I am not sure they said what they did to correct.

Do any of you honemeisters have any suggestions? Need some help.

jmsbcknr

Hi!

If you look at the picture of the Filarmonica Doble Temple 7/8 on classicshaving.com at the bottom of this link,

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...51/1555127.htm

you will see that the cutting edge of the blade looks curved, reminding one of a scimitar. This may be due to factory machine sharpening on a rotary, not on flat water stones. Perhaps the photographed item is not representative or the photograph distorts the image. In any case, the flat water stone method of honing looks for a flat blade edge, something like this one:

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalo...940/190304.htm

My experience has been that the only way to get satisfactory results doing flat water stone honing on a "curved" blade is to carefully grind it until it indeed becomes flat, using a 1000 water stone or perhaps a lower number. In a particular case I went as low as 240. Much patience and effort are necessary. One must pay attention to keep the "facette" to equal width on both sides of the blade. Once you have achieved the desired flat edge, refined honing using 6000 and 8000 water stones is due, and / or, as an alternative to the latter, a paste strop. Then finish off with normal stropping. Of course, if all str8 razor factories did all of this by hand, the razors would be still dearer.

Recently went through this process with a stainless steel 3/4" blade. It now shaves but, whew, much time and effort. Str8 razors are a hobby. Sharpening is 60 % of str8 razor shaving. Shavettes and Feathers are for lazier shavers like yours truly. And come with flat blade edges built in. :-)

Greetings,

lux

Originally Posted by lux

My experience has been that the only way to get satisfactory results doing flat water stone honing on a "curved" blade is to carefully grind it until it indeed becomes flat, using a 1000 water stone or perhaps a lower number. In a particular case I went as low as 240. Once you have achieved the desired flat edge, refined honing using 6000 and 8000 water stones is due, and / or, as an alternative to the latter, a paste strop. Then finish off with normal stropping. Of course, if all str8 razor factories did all of this by hand, the razors would be still dearer.Greetings,lux

When I got my first razor, I did not think it was quite sharp enough. I used 5k and 8k waterstones and got it a little sharper but not quite what I wanted. I then decided to start from scratch (npi), and took it to my Shapton 1k which cuts nicely. Following up with the 5k and 8k made an excellent shaver. I have since used .5 micron paste for a more polished edge, but no appreciable shave improvement.

Originally Posted by lux

Hi!


My experience has been that the only way to get satisfactory results doing flat water stone honing on a "curved" blade is to carefully grind it until it indeed becomes flat, using a 1000 water stone or perhaps a lower number. In a particular case I went as low as 240.
lux

no,no,no,
The straight razor edge is SUPPOSED to have curvature to it. That is the desired thing. That is why in some models the back (spine) is also curved, to promote edge curvature. With curved edge you get more comfortable shave. In the help files, find the barber's manual and check the honing part. It actually explains how to create curved edge.

I espetially like the models with curved spines, both aestecicaly, and in ability to maintain the edge curvature. Throw a spike point, and i am happy camper

best,
Nenad

But my main problem is that I am getting it sharp on either end but not in the middle. What can I do about that?


jmsbcknr

Hello superfly,

How does one hone for a curved blade edge using water stones, please?

Have you an on-line reference to the manual you mention?

What advantages has a curved blade edge on a str8?

Greetings,

lux

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

But my main problem is that I am getting it sharp on either end but not in the middle. What can I do about that?


jmsbcknr

Patience, and light touch... I don't know your honing technique, but you might consider X pattern, where the edge cames off the stone. This would promote the middle of the blade sharpness...again, like described in barber's manual.

Hi lux,

You hone the curved blade just the same as any other. Infact, every blade should have some (even minimal) curve to it. I have a DOVO with flat spine, but it is honed with minimal curve (and shaves fine). Just look at the SRP logo in the home page. In the picture is famous Wade&Butcher, with noticable meatchopper curve both the spine and edge.

The barber's manual link is: http://straightrazorpalace.com/compo...id,3/Itemid,3/


hope this helps,
Nenad

Hey guys! If the edge and blade are curved when you buy them new then that is the way they are supposed to be! Do not try to straighten the edge.

Look at my avatar. That is the X pattern of honing. Also look in the Help files section under honing and check out the gifs and avi files. Read the barbers manual that Superfly provided a link to. In short use the X pattern and draw the blade almost all the way off the bottom of the hone while focusing on your pressure.
Use 1-2 lbs of pressure and make sure the center part of the blade is making contact with the hone as you draw it off the hone
I do not know what hones you have but try starting with the 4000 stone first. Check your edge after every 25 laps to see what the rate of change is.

Hope this helps,

According to the barber's manual, the way you get the curved edge (a belly in the middle) is to vary the pressure as you hone. In particular you increase the pressure at either end of the blade

Just to be sure we are understanding you correctly, you are saying the blade has a curve, or an "arc". Or, do you mean to say that the blade has a "bow" in it?

Randy