Thread: Setting a bevel - back to square 1

I've produced some nice extremely shavable edges on old dull blades. BUT, my success is limited by my ability to set a bevel. If I have a good bevel, no problem. But I seem to have trouble with any blade that doesnt have a basic bevel set.

How do you really know that you have a good bevel? Should you be able to see....feel...measure? Is it a question of evenness (width of bevel on one side equal to that on the other)? If that is the case, do you hone only the shorter side till even?

This is so basic I hesitated to ask. But the Wiki entry dealing with bevels didnt answer my questions. Going from a bevel via progressions and finishing hones is no problem (ok, little problems) for me. But understanding the bevel....?

Point me in a direction, to articles...write me off as lost cause, etc.

Thanks all

Originally Posted by jleeg

But I seem to have trouble with any blade that doesnt have a basic bevel set.

Every single person will have problem not just you.Bevel must set first then rest comes

How do you really know that you have a good bevel?

Code:

when you look to the bevel under the light you will see shiny bevel from tip to the heel or you can feel with your thumb

Should you be able to see....feel...measure? Is it a question of evenness (width of bevel on one side equal to that on the other)?

Code:

No it is not you have to be perfectionist to try to do so

If that is the case, do you hone only the shorter side till even?

never have done that and no one asked for it.

But understanding the bevel....?
Only function bevel does it supports the edge that is it. Doesn't matter it is not even all the way(by the way it is because of uneven back of the blade even you can find some new blades do have this problem) on the edge as long as your edge is straight .


Thanks all

Hope this helps

Check out this video here of Lynn honing at the latest meetup and you will see him setting the bevel. IME it is desirable for the bevel to be equal on either side but in the real world it depends on the blade being correctly ground and the spine not being either flattened from incorrect honing or warped. IOW, sometimes it may be uneven i.e. wider at one end or the other or on one side or the other.

If the blade is ground evenly and not damaged by prior incorrect honing you can work circles on one side to even out the bevels from side to side but in general the narrower the bevel the better.

A method I picked up from Bart on this forum that works for me is to start by intentionally dulling the razor by very lightly drawing the edge against a glass, so it won't shave arm hair. Then hone it until it shaves armhair along all parts of the edge-- at that point you should have a good bevel and can move to the next stage.

On one razor I have had problems getting the toe to respond, and the rolling x stroke helped me (it's in the wiki).

The other benchmark I like to use to check keenness (after the bevel setting stagel) is will the blade shave armhair when the blade is held just above the skin. If you can hear it "ping" and see the little buggers fall down along all parts of the edge, it's at a shaveable level.

-Chief

The single biggest "trick" to getting a good bevel is very simple....

Forget the word OVERHONE just take that thought out of your head and get the razor just sharp enough the cut hair off the arm any way possible as evenly as possible.... The TNT rules at this stage... The edge should feel like the sharpest knife you have ever touched from heel to toe....

Originally Posted by gssixgun

get the razor just sharp enough the cut hair off the arm ....

Glen will be better if you mention what stone is in the conversation because of grit.

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

Glen will be better if you mention what stone is in the conversation because of grit.

Whoops !!!!! I guess I was making assumptions there

Bevel sets are normally done on approximately a 1k stone doesn't much matter the brand...

The real problem comes in because of all the variables, when you start talking E-baybies everything goes haywire because now you dropped down in the dark depths of restoration instead of just honing....

Here is a new thread I just did.... it might get you started right



http://straightrazorpalace.com/basic...tml#post435617

If i can run my thumb a cross cutting edge and it slides bevel needs to be set on 1k. just keep honing with patience untill your thumb doest glide across egde and the edge grips your thumb not letting it slide then check see if you can shave arm hair a little if so you have bevel. Then you need to sharpen it on 4k then polish on 8k and example 12k or your choice then strop and just test if it still tugs a little don't worry just go back to 4k 8k so on it will get there.