Quote Originally Posted by khaos View Post
I'm gonna agree with Lynn on this one. I don't see a way it could really work... cus sand paper honing edge first I feel like the grit would grab it and microchip because the grit is above teh surface of the paper, not contained within the surface like it is in a hone. So that leaves back honing. And this apparently leaves a very poor edge, though I can't say because I've only honed the "correct" edge leading way.
I routinely use sandpaper, 500 & 1000 grit, to remove old oxidized edges and nicks in the edge. It has worked for me, for those purposes, for a number of years. I do hone edge first and it does not microchip.

I can also see Lynns point if used exclusively. It is very easy to scratch the blade in areas other than the bevel and more by poor choice of sandpaper's and methods. When I do use 500 grit, which I had to do today, I use 3 layers of tape. That keeps the bevel width to a minimum. After the 500 grit I remove the tape and reapply one layer of tape and start on the 1000 grit to bring back a proper bevel angle.

In this thread the poster finds himself in a position where alternative methods are necessary. Careful use of sandpaper can help in this case but I do not recommend sandpaper for the 4000 and finer grits unless it is the only thing available.

Just my $.02,