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  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    I have to say speed does matter.
    when you start set bevel 1k,4k--until 8k process doesn't matter which speed and direction etc.
    after that you need to slow down tremendously.
    You last strokes on final finishing stones should be dead slow. you have to give time to blade spend on the hone.
    Gl

  2. #12
    Large Member ben.mid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl View Post
    You last strokes on final finishing stones should be dead slow. you have to give time to blade spend on the hone.
    Gl
    Sham, i respect your abilities & knowledge tremendously, but how does extra time on the hone work? I'd have thought that pressure, or lack of, & distance covered are the governing factors?

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Sometimes I notice apparent contradictions in one fellow's honing recommendations as opposed to another. I think each of us finds a variation on a theme that works for us. One guy may be more comfortable with a faster stroke and get better results while for another slowing down does the trick.

    It is similar in tattooing and probably other manual pursuits. My boss's hand moves far faster than mine running an outliner machine over the skin but we each end up with a smooth flowing line.

    More than one tattooer watching me outline has said that if they tried to move at the speed my hand was moving their hand would shake while for me it is very comfortable and steady. Different strokes for different folks.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben.mid View Post
    Sham, i respect your abilities & knowledge tremendously, but how does extra time on the hone work? I'd have thought that pressure, or lack of, & distance covered are the governing factors?
    I agree what you are saying about pressure .distance etc .
    Let me explain what i said in my above message.
    when you start to hone usually we start 1k(please lets use common variation. i understand someone can start on 325 grit etc)
    in this level your purpose is only set the bevel. remove any chips uneven bevel etc.
    edge is thick as can be. you can do any speed any motion you like. More experienced person will do forfard backword motion in faster speed just job get done faster ( you get more experience +laziness too).Any mistake in this level is almost not mistake.
    after you get to 8 k level honing edge changes.
    changes are edge gets more finer.
    Any mistake will cost you more(have to go 1 k level and it is not a good feeling)
    in this level moving blade with faster motion will give person more trouble to put same amount pressure in all way the blade +remember pressure should come to =0.Now it is really hard to put zero pressure with fast movement by slowing down you can rich that zero level pressure.
    in last part of honing you have to go your slowest speed and make sure just blades weight plays role. This stage should be escher etc.
    in this case i have calculated if you use on 8 inch escher hone 8 second ,20 full strokes you will get the best results.
    Please note when you go to An Escher your blade should be ready for final touch if you jump to it too early 100 laps will not give the edge Escher suppose to do.

    I should add this. Some people can hone slower or faster or just sleep behind the stone. Everyone has their way and this is my way . i do think it works for me so far . Never had problems with any blade i have honed.
    Above doesn't mean every single person must to this. if you have time and you know what are you doing go head try ,let me know did it work for you or not. etc.
    GL

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to hi_bud_gl For This Useful Post:

    ben.mid (08-25-2009), BHChieftain (08-21-2009)

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