Thread: Three questions

Have a few questions I've amassed over the past few weeks and just haven't gotten around to posting them.

First, when taping the spine, how often do you replace the tape? Do you wait until it's near metal and/or do you replace it when going from one hone to the next? Particularly from your bevel setter to the next stone up.

Second, what are some tips for honing the heel evenly and how do you ensure that you don't hit the metal on the stabilizers? I have trouble getting the heel done using an x-stroke and I hesitate to lift the spine slightly for more contact on the edge. I also have a habit of getting a wee bit of scratches at the stabilizers. I know it's just carelessness -- do you just get used to it?

Lastly, I have a razor that I cleaned up and breadknifed to get through some nice chips. Now it has a wicked (by my standards) spike that I'd like to tone down -- do I hone it to get it a little rounded or could you just use chamfer it like the edge of a hone? Here's a before/after pic:



Hones I have are DMT: 600 (swarf holes), 1200 (swarf holes), D8C, D6EE
Norton 4k/8k
Naniwa 1k and 12k

Thanks for any advice!

I am sure one of our honemeisters will chime in, but here is what I do:

1. It depends on the amount of honing. If I am dealing with a dull ebay razor and need to spend a lot of time on 1200 or lower, I replace the tape and then set the bevel. I keep that tape until the finishing hone.

2. If you really want to hone up the heel, then one easy way is the rolling x. Well just the heel half, anyway, meaning starting your stroke with the toe lifted.

3. I usually keep the spikes intact, but a few strokes on your coarse stone (with the spike perpendicular) will be enough to tame it. You don't need to round it off.