Thread: Prep for a Norton WS

I have watched the video where the gentleman (sorry I can't remember his name) uses wet sandpaper to make a norton 4000/8000 completely flat. He is sanding it on a pane of 1/4 inch glass, and I believe he states that he is using 300 grit sandpaper.

My questions are:

Is this necessary for a new stone?
Is 300 grit really fine enough for both the 4000 and 8000 sides of the stone?
How often is the procedure necessary?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Darkwolf

I have watched the video where the gentleman (sorry I can't remember his name) uses wet sandpaper to make a norton 4000/8000 completely flat. He is sanding it on a pane of 1/4 inch glass, and I believe he states that he is using 300 grit sandpaper.

My questions are:

Is this necessary for a new stone?
Is 300 grit really fine enough for both the 4000 and 8000 sides of the stone?
How often is the procedure necessary?

Thanks!

Flattening in not necessary on a new stone. Once a razor is keen, it rarely needs honing again for at least three to six months, IF you carefully strop before each shave. This is even more-so true if you have a cheap paddle strop with a couple of levels of paste on them, say red and black.

The average user with a handful of razors could probably go a few years before there was a noticeable erosion of the stone to the point it was interfering with the honing process, probably longer.

What will occur on a new Norton 4k/8k is a change in the feel of the stones surface going from new-and-dry, to used-and-wet. Man-made waterstones are engineered to have tiny pieces of the stone go into a muddy slurry. It is the slurry of the waterstone that accomlishes the cutting of the steel. This is true of natural waterstones, also.

Now, if you're REALLY into razors like myself, or Lynn, or a dozen other edge-freaks on the forum, we probably keen several razors a day/week, at least. The Norton will develop a dip in the middle of the stone after heavy, heavy use, more so on the 4k side than the 8k side. THAT's when corrective action is called for.

Thanks Uthed!

But isn't the 300 grit too coarse?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by mpols1968

But isn't the 300 grit too coarse?

Thanks!

The 300-grit sandpaper was being used to flatten the Norton. I think it worked, didn't it? Once the waterstone's surface is again flat, the next use will create a slurry that will, besides keening the edge, will fill in the rough spots that may have been created during the flattening process.

Is this what you use to flatten your norton? or haven't you needed to yet?

another question. what do you use to create the slury? sandpaper? what grit?

My norton gets dirty from the metal and I've been flattening it to get it clean again. What are you doing to keep the stone clean of metal.

I appreciate your answers.

Thanks,

Michael

I also find my Norton (particularly the 4k side) cuts a little better if it has soaked in the water longer. Does anybody know why this is?

X

Originally Posted by mpols1968

Is this what you use to flatten your norton? or haven't you needed to yet?

another question. what do you use to create the slury? sandpaper? what grit?

My norton gets dirty from the metal and I've been flattening it to get it clean again. What are you doing to keep the stone clean of metal.

I appreciate your answers.

Thanks,

Michael

I use an 8-inch hard Arkansas stone I also have, just rubbing the two together, to flatten the Norton. I don't bother working up a slurry beforehand. After a few strokes, a slurry will begin. I don't worry about "clean" with respect to metal filings on a waterstone. The metal will not "clog" the process like it might with an Arkansas stone used dry.

Originally Posted by xman

I also find my Norton (particularly the 4k side) cuts a little better if it has soaked in the water longer. Does anybody know why this is?

X

I think it's because the slurry builds a bit faster. I just leave mine in a plastic water bucket to which I've added a few drops of iodine from the medicine cabinet to keep scum from forming.