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Thread: Which is your favorite 1k ????
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12-31-2009, 07:15 PM #21
just to muddy the waters further, I ran across an Arashiyama 1000 grit stone which I believe are a combination of abrasives from natural stones and artificial abrasives.
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01-04-2010, 04:46 AM #22
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Thanked: 4I have never been a fan of diamond stones, so I would definitely go with a water stone. I used to be a big fan of king stones, I just love the feedback I get when using one and you can build up slurry pretty quick. Now I am using my nortons a lot more, they are beginning to grow on me
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01-04-2010, 05:06 AM #23
Py, sounds like you might like the Naniwa 1k. Superstone or Chosera - both are nice but I don't know enough to suggest one over the other.
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01-04-2010, 02:09 PM #24
I like my Shapton GS 1k.
But if I didnt have that I'd get a DMT 1200. Apparently they are very good for bevel setting..!
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01-05-2010, 06:54 PM #25
Well, I just happened to walk into Woodcraft Sunday night.
I noticed they had the flat granite slab so I picked it up for lapping my karasu as it is a little big for the DMT to do a good job.
Then I needed some waterproof sandpaper
and a credit card DMT (for raising slurry)
and they had a King 1000 waterstone for about $20.
It has worked pretty nice since then. It has a much better feel than the DMT. Decent choice.
I will probably upgrade from this in the future, but for now, it confirms for me that a waterstone seems to work better for me than the DMT.
I think I see a Chocera 2K in my future. How is it for slurry production?Last edited by Pyment; 01-05-2010 at 07:01 PM. Reason: spelling
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01-05-2010, 10:20 PM #26
Just had a thought.
I expect someone would want to know why I was thinking about adding a 2K to the 1K.
There is some thought that when you are designing a progression you should focus on microns rather than grit. The idea would be to drop the micron size by 1/3 to 1/2 at each step. If I am not wrong 1K is about 15 micron and 2k is about 7 micron. So from Japan Tool suggests this then on to Aoto (which he estimates at 3-4K), medium finisher, final finisher.
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01-06-2010, 01:33 AM #27
I'm curious how much you save by having a 2k. Another stone, but maybe less time on each stone? It seems to me like an awfully small jump to be making though, I'm not sure how much the edge will change from 1 to 2k. I'm certainly curious...
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01-09-2010, 08:13 PM #28
If you look at the grit you might go 1000, 2000, 4000, 8000
That corresponds (roughly) in microns to 17, 8, 3, 1.
If you take the 8 (2K) out of there, you could make the argument that jumping from 17 to 3 looks pretty big when the next step goes from 3 to 1.
It makes a case that many of us take a pretty big jump (in terms of particle size) in the early part of the progression.
It also gives me an excuse to buy the Chocera 2K.
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01-09-2010, 11:05 PM #29
That is a pretty good list of requirements. All but the last one is fairly easy. I do not like the feel of diamond plates much myself. But the OP sharpening lathe chisels may want to look into that- if I were sharpening HSS I would be using dplate.
I am getting near the end of my Shapton pro 1k (it is my favorite of the pros.) So I'll be shopping soon, and a little tired of Shapton for awhile.
With the chosera I fear it will be too soft- as this is one of their features. Personally I would never consider a spyderco as they are not really waterstones. I think in short order one would be glazed and lap like your TranArk. Bester-excellent rocks, but been there done that. I will probably be calling japan-tool asking for a couple Sigs to be loaded on the plane. They are supposed to be hard and fast and steels friendly. Perhaps closest to filling your requirement.
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01-09-2010, 11:20 PM #30
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Thanked: 402I like the King 1k
Its faster and more suitable for very hard steels than my Henckels/Naniwa 1k.