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11-07-2005, 10:59 AM #1
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Thanked: 2204I assume that the Simmons is an old razor?
Did you perform the thumbnail test to check for nicks or use a microscope to check for a deteriorated edge? In my limited experience ALL of the old razors have had at least a deteriorated edge on them that needed to be honed away with a coarse stone, 1000 grit. The 4000 will work but it will take a lot longer to accomplish than a 1000 stone.
Lynn has suggested using a counter-clockwise circular motion on the Norton 4000, using two hands,to work on the bevel and for small nick removal. I have tried that and it does work.
Since you have the 4000 Norton try using Lynns method before you go to a 1000 grit stone or sandpaper. Once the edge is established with the 4000 then start using the 8000 and a pyramid sequence and pay attention to the rate of change that occurs.
If you have spent a long time on the 4000 with no improvement that would suggest that your bevel has not been created. You will need more work on either the 4000 or the 1000 to create that bevel.
Hope this helps,
Originally Posted by rtaylor61Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-07-2005, 06:46 PM #2
Randy,
I'm not sure how old the Simmons is, but it is in incredible shape. Tight blade fit, no scratches on the blade or scales. No water spots or rust, just no edge. I've got the RS microscope, need to pick up some batteries tonight. I have taken it from sliding right off of the thumbnail (no grip) to having a uniform (at least IMO) drag across the thumbnail. Feel like I'm on the right track, but have hit a wall. Any suggestions on a 1000 grit stone? I've got a Carborandum (sp?) that is fairly coarse, but can't make out the number on it. Also, it is an oil hone, and I'm not sure what oil to use. Yep, just plain old newbie questions at this point!
RT
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11-08-2005, 12:31 PM #3
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Thanked: 2204If the microscope shows only minor nicks in the edge then use the 4000 stone in a circular pattern to establish the bevel and remove the nicks.
The 1000 grit is very aggressive, I only use it to remove large nicks and establish a bevel on an edge that has rust or pitting.
The two stones that you mentioned would fall into the very coarse category
(in razor terms). They are also very slow. If they are to coarse they WILL!
chip the edge of the razor.
A better solution is either a 1000 grit sheet of sandpaper or a 1000 grit waterstone. A Norton is the best of the stones for a straight razor.
Let us know what the microscope says.
Hope this helps,
Originally Posted by rtaylor61Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-08-2005, 03:15 PM #4
Thanks for all of the helpful input! Hopefully, I will get the batteries for the microscope today. Work has kept me busy. I will follow up with a report tonight on the blade condition. Also, I just got a razor back from Lynn, so I will have a razor for good comparison.
Would a Norton 1000 grit be a good stone to have in my arsenol? My immediate plans are to get the pastes I need for my paddle strop to take care of my shaving razors, but I am enjoying the challenge of "restoring" a razor to shaving sharpness.
RT
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11-09-2005, 12:19 AM #5
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Thanked: 2204A Norton 1000 was one of the best investments I have made when it comes to restoring the bevel on a Ebay special.
Just my two cents,Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-10-2005, 04:29 PM #6Originally Posted by randydance062449
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11-10-2005, 09:33 PM #7
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Thanked: 2204YES!
Love that graphic!
Just be sure to do both sides of the blade.
And the handle on the razor should be angled down 45 degrees or so.
Originally Posted by misjLast edited by randydance062449; 11-10-2005 at 09:36 PM.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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11-11-2005, 02:59 PM #8
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Thanked: 4942Actually, my recommendation is one handed only and I have the razor perpendicular to the stone. With the edge facing me, I use counterclockwise strokes and with the edge facing away from me, I use a clockwise stroke. I still do not put much, if any, pressure on the blade when doing this. Hope this helps. Lynn
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11-11-2005, 03:55 PM #9Originally Posted by adjustme69
What got me thinking is I got a new barber hone from Tilly and it said to use circular strokes if you used it dry but linear strokes if you used it wet or with lather.
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11-11-2005, 04:55 PM #10
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Thanked: 4942I have not found the circular strokes successful from start to finish. I basically am looking to even out an edge and then refine it with the X pattern of honing. After around 4000 razors honed, this is working best for me. I really don't like to use the barber hones. I have around 25 of them, but they are small, awkward to handle and not consistent in grit. I know alot of you experts out there like them, but that's what makes this sport so much fun. Thanks. Lynn