Thread: Wade and Butcher Honing Help

How would I go about honing this? I have only honed full hollow and although I looked thru allot of posts on wedges and alike I really appriciate some advice from the forum. I use DMT or Naniwa for bevels then Norton 4/8 and as a finisher Naniwa 12k.
Thanks

tape the back and go for it. be patient may take more time then what you think.your set up ok if you know how to use them. gl

Well, I have only honed about 10 razors as yet, so I would'nt say I know how to hone anything, but I will see what I can do thanks. how much tape? and should I use the same stroke as a full hollow?

Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

tape the back and go for it. be patient may take more time then what you think.your set up ok if you know how to use them. gl

+1 with what Sham said. I use 1 piece some guys use 2 or 3 to increase the angle and reduce with width of the bevel. Whatever you do make a note of it in case you ever want to hone it again.

The marker test will give you an idea on the stroke that will be necessary. Those wedges tend to be smiling blades and the rolling x or maybe a 45 degree angle to the hone is what you may need. They tend to be a long slog IME. You'll soon see why the full hollow took over the market. OTOH, they shave good and they are cool. Shaving with a razor 150 or 200 years old is a hoot.

Edit; taking another look at the pic it doesn't look like that one will be too bad. Not that radical a smile and sort of a half hollow or so ?

Matt,
Some really good advice has been given to help you start this project. I would use 1 piece of tape first and see if that produces the edge you are looking for. If it doesn't then try adding another one.
I think the key to using the marker is not necessarily just seeing what is or isn't being removed during the stroke, but what to do with the information once you get it. Here's how I set this up.
Take a magic marker, I use the wide sharpie, and mark both sides of the edge. While that is drying I get things setup. Once the edge is dry, I make 1 very slow lap, on my stone, in each direction. While I do this, I apply maybe 1lb pressure and move the blade absolutly straight and perpendicular to the stone in one direction. This lap might take 2 to 3 seconds to make. Then I flip the blade and do the same thing in the other direction.
Now I look at the blade and see what it is telling me. Of course, spots along the very edge that are still black indicate that the edge didn't touch the stone. Now comes the fun part. Figuring out what it takes to make that spot dissappear.
Now that I know where the blade isn't touching, I continue doing 1 lap at a time using whatever stroke I can to try and accomplish this.
Once I figure out how to remove the mark, and only experience will help you here, I dry the blade, remark it and start over again. Once you can remove the mark in 1 stroke you are ready to move on. Remember, do this slowly when you start out. You are trying to build muscle memory and only you care how fast you go. As you become better at controlling the blade, your speed will improve as will your skill.

Hope this helps,

Ray

Alright guys, I'm going in I'll post the results hopefully with a SOTD using the razor

It worked many thanks, I did'nt think it was getting there and the razor was not popn hairs like other razors Ive honed, but it looked good by eye and microscope and I just kinda went by look and also sound the sound of the edge contacting, the heal needed to be lifted so that the toe would contact but the heal also needed to be made to contact as well so I used a slight roll on my stroke. felt pretty dull but I took it to 12k then some crox and then linen and leather, and wow its great possibly one of my best shaves smooth and plenty sharp difernt than my full hollows so i guess shaving is the real test for a razor

Glad to hear everything is working out now.

Ray

This couldn't have come at a better time, I'm about to hit the stones with a wedge myself. This information that you guys posted just confirmed my plan of attack.
Thanks,
Scott