Thread: Learning to Hone

Let us know what you decide! Its good of you to try this and expand our knowledge base.

Waiting!

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

opinion only:
Although I can't provide any evidence of such I personally do not believe that hone is 1200 grit. If I were to make an uneducated guess I'd say its about 5,000-6,000 grit. I think it is a poor razor hone but works ok for setting an edge and I think it qualifies as a razor hone, but that it is not 1200 grit. I will hone a razor on it and check it under a microscope. But I would still just be guessing from my use of it. I would think a 1200 would feel rougher than a 4,000 and it is smoother than 4,000.

Hello Joe,

I believe the garnets are in the Belgian stones, not the Arkaksas stones. And the garnets fracture into smaller sizes.

The Arkansas stones are another story. I believe they are measured and graded in terms of specific gravity, not particle size.

Originally Posted by Joe Lerch

That's what I always thought, but the ad does say 1200, unless it's a mistake.

There's a similar inconsistency with hard Arkansas stones. They're nominally 1200 but feel much finer and do have a reputation for giving a fine finish. I read somewhee that the garnet particles are 3-5 micron, which is between 4K and 8K.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Hello Joe,

I believe the garnets are in the Belgian stones, not the Arkaksas stones. And the garnets fracture into smaller sizes.

The Arkansas stones are another story. I believe they are measured and graded in terms of specific gravity, not particle size.

That was my mistake. You're right, but the micron size was correct. The specific gravity tells you the density of the grains. The grain size determines the size of the scratch lines.

I honed on the Col. Conk stone some today and reviewed the scratch patterns. I haven't come to any conclusions. I think, absent, a comparative 1200 grit stone that I can't really make a definitive conclusion. It did appear to have a pattern similar in separation to the 4,000 side of a Norton.

I've got a few questions about the video from way back at the beginning of this thread.

1. Is it really necessary to store Norton waterstones in water?
2. Should you really be flattening out both sides of the stone that frequently?
3. My razor is high carbon (not stainless) steel. In that video the guy is holding it with two hands the whole time. Is that ok? (it was always my understanding that getting fingerprints on the blade was bad)

1. No, the Norton should be stored in water only if you are using it couple times in a week. Otherwise it is fine to keep it dy, in it's box. Just remember to soak it in room temperature water for 10 minutes before using it.

2. One of the stupidest things to do is flattening your stone after couple of honing jobs. You loose it slowly that way. The stone needs to be flatened after very frequent use. Flatening the stones appeared as necesitty with soft natural stones and sharpening knifes usage, when greater pressure is used and the softer stone gives away faster. With your average 1 razor a month honing job, this can be avoid completely. Just wash the stone with regular bar soap. I use my boar bristle brush to "lather" the stone couple of times and wash it with water, and it is like new. If some metal residue still refuse to clean after this, you can use pumice stone, lightly rubbing the stone the whole surface. This will also keep straight surface on it.

3. Fingerprints on the razor have no meaning whatsoever, since you are handling the razor wet from the stone. after honing, clean the razor with whatever (soap and water, alcohol rub) dry it well and, if you are living in humid area, aply a drop or two of mineral oil, light sewing machine oil, or camelia oil, and whipe with paper towel. You can also consider the long therm protection solutions (DOVO's Sterol comes to mind) for more permanent protection.

have fun,
Nenad

I agree that over use of trying to flatten your stone will only wear it out quicker. I have not used a pumice stone on a hone but from it's use with strops I think it is likely sodter than any stone we would be using and is probably best for simply cleaning off metal residue and likely does not resurface (flatten) the stone.
There are cast steel plates made specifically for flattening stones and Woodcraft and othrs carry them. They would be my first choice for this task.

I like the Dovo Sterol for my daily protection of razors not just long term. It is clean (the Ster part of Sterol) and goes a long way. I still have half a bottle left that is over a year old. Pretty good value I think.

Machine oil, etc.... may doe the job but may also have things in them which could irritate the skin unlike the Sterol.

Tony

1. Has been answered
2. I flatten/clean my hone by rubbing two of them together or by placing some wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface and lapping on that.
The frequency is about every three honings. But...thats because I am honing a razor from scratch. For your once every three month honing that would not be necessary. Just keep the metal filings off the hone by placing the hone under running water and rubbing it with your fingers or a nylon pad.
3. One hand or two. This has been discussed at length on the various forums. The goal is to have an even pressure on the blade all along its length while honing. Avoid excess peressure from the second hand. It will create an uneven amount of wear on the blade. Do what you feel most comfortable with. Concentrate on your technique. Either way will require practice.

Just my two cents,

Originally Posted by 440stainless

I've got a few questions about the video from way back at the beginning of this thread.

1. Is it really necessary to store Norton waterstones in water?
2. Should you really be flattening out both sides of the stone that frequently?
3. My razor is high carbon (not stainless) steel. In that video the guy is holding it with two hands the whole time. Is that ok? (it was always my understanding that getting fingerprints on the blade was bad)

Originally Posted by Tony Miller

Machine oil, etc.... may doe the job but may also have things in them which could irritate the skin unlike the Sterol.

Tony

For machine oil I am not sure, but 100% mineral oil should be fine, it is the same as baby's oil...


Nenad