Thread: X PATTERN OR STRAIGHT PATTERN

I have hones which are all 3 inches. With a 3 inch hone is there any need or any advantage in using an X pattern? or can I simply hone straight up and down the hone as it is larger than the blade?

Straight up and down is fine

I think you might get things done little faster if you use both X and straight up and down.

depending on the blade. I am yet to see perfectly straight edge to do straight up and down passes. On another hand X strokes work for almost anything. For some cases, such as bowed blades, you can utilize a modification to the X stroke to get the job done.

My first thought was to say "Yes, it depends on the razor. The edge would have to be straight." but I am second guessing that. One could, in theory, do a rolling stroke that is not in an X pattern, right? It may not be easy, but I think it could be done.

Anyway... I've honed up many razors with a straight stroke, so it certainly can be done. I've also had lots of blades, both new and vintage, that have had straight edges. Some I honed with straight strokes, others with X's. I have not found either method to be more successful than the other when it comes to my own shave tests and my standards for shave ready. I don't know if any have been "perfectly straight," but I know what worked to get them shaving.

IMO the X pattern is superior because it will nullify any anomaly in the hone or the razor. If the razor is perfectly straight and the hone is perfectly flat the straight stroke is probably alright. Since that is rarely the case the x pattern is IMO recommended as the edge will come in contact with the hone consistently where it might not with a straight stroke. There is also the thinking by some that having the striations on the bevel at a 45 degree angle rather than a 90 is also more effective in cutting whiskers.

I believe I've received a few edges perfectly straight, I may just not be looking close enough though. I personally prefer straight up and down with fingers at the extremes to work a slight smile rather than going to an X on my 3" wide hones. I seem to recall someone suggesting here that an edge polished at an angle rather than straight is a bit more durable (edit: or maybe it was what Jimmy said, cuts better... I didn't give it much thought and may be mistaken in my memory of the argument), but I haven't noticed any difference personally, so it may have been simple conjecture.

That said, I use straight up and down on my 4k, Jnat, and when necessary on my XC. I use it on my other DMT's on my 2.5" blades. I've not encountered any problems. I also use X on my swaty's, other handheld hones, and my DuoSharp (on my 3" blades). In case it would be the next question, I've not noticed any problems with mixing the patterns either, although as someone suggested it would slightly increase material removal rate.

Jimmy, you seem to be making the assumption that the imperfection follows the hone on a straight pattern... which is overwhelming the case I'm sure, but it's overwhelmingly the case because most imperfections (on synthetics and many naturals) are the result of honing (wear, scratches, etc). I'd expect that if you use an X pattern (and started with a lapped hone) your imperfections will follow suit, so using an X on a hone that is always used with an X would be the same (with regard to imperfections) as using a straight pass on a hone that is always used with a straight pass. Or am I misinterpreting your point?

Personally, I tend to favour an X, even on a wider hone. If the edge or hone have any imperfection, I feel I'll get better results that way. I used to go up & down, but from what I've observed, it's possible for an edge to get a little uneven that way.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

IMO the X pattern is superior because it will nullify any anomaly in the hone or the razor. If the razor is perfectly straight and the hone is perfectly flat the straight stroke is probably alright. Since that is rarely the case the x pattern is IMO recommended as the edge will come in contact with the hone consistently where it might not with a straight stroke. There is also the thinking by some that having the striations on the bevel at a 45 degree angle rather than a 90 is also more effective in cutting whiskers.

I find myself agreeing with you more and more

Do you notice any pattern to the uneven honing you're getting from straight passes? Are frowns forming, uneven bevel depths, etc?