Thread: Opinions on TRANSLUCENT Arkansas stones

Since part of the original question was regarding the difference between translucent and black Arkansas stones, I’ll address that subject first. The reason being that I’m sure someone will have a very similar question in the near future.

Essentially, there is NO difference in translucent and black Arkansas stones. Both are at the top of Arkansas grading scale being referred to as “extra fine” and are more accurately referred to as “true hard Arkansas”.
Arkansas, being a naturally occurring stone, occurs in many different colors including shades of white, grays/shades of blue-gray, and even pink (yes pink). Even a very choice cut stone will usually have veins or swirls or patches of other “colorations” in them.
One cannot determine the actual grit of the hone based ONLY on the color. So it’s imperative that if your dropping good money for a high end piece of Arkansas your buying it from a reputable source.

I would not encourage anyone to use Arkansas as a razor hone, however they HAVE been used in the past. The advise given previously is wise and given out of experience. To avoid undue headache, follow it accordingly <g>.
However, should you, or anyone else, be interested in good Arkansas hones, I’ll post a link to a good source below this paragraph. I don’t seen a problem in using medium or hard Arkansas for removing nicks or heavy initial profiling of an abused razor, just not as a finishing hone. You’ll need something more fine, and more consistent (i.e. Nortons and Coticule)
Arkansas Grades
You’ll notice I linked to the page explaining the grading of Arkansas with chart for approximate grit grade comparison.

Testing another couple of links
http://tinyurl.com/bss73 (Blue Belgian test 1)

http://tinyurl.com/bvxmd (Blue Belgian test 2)

AhHAAaa... finally got them to work.. those are test's using the blue Belgan hones by the way haha... enjoy!

Kelly,
They ar great links! You wouldn't happen to have a link to a site that would teach us to read German would you?? <g>

Tony

Haha ...
Teach you, no I’m afraid I don’t. However if those links were screwed up (i.e. in German) you can use any one of your favorite web translators ( I use BabelFish) or I can try again, I don’t know if they come up in English because they are saved in my cache or if they were working properly. Let me know if I need to work a little harder

Learn German in no time
http://babelfish.altavista.com/

3 quick questions...

1) The Shapton Pro series http://www.shaptonstones.com/stones/...nal-Series.php goes from 8,000 - 15,000 grit. I would assume 15,000 is acceptable?
(Or, is that too big of a jump from at Belgian yellow 8,000 to a Shapton 15,000)

2) Where is a good site to find a Chinese waterstone at the 12,000 grit you recommend? If I can't find a good Chinese waterstone, my plan was to go with the Shapton Pro 15,000.

Now about a 4,000 grit:
I have a very light beard and take excellent care to the blades. My razor steels are top of the line.
3) Other than corrective maintenance on a blade that I may have purchased used, is there a need for a 4,000 grit? Or - do I just need to shut-up and get the Norton 4000/8000 and be done with it?

Thanks!

1. The Shapton Pro 15K is not only acceptable, but highly desirable... btw, belgian blue coticule is the coarser side, the yellow coticule is about 10-12K...

2. You can find it here , good price, too ~$30...

3. shit happens, get the larger 4/8K combo stone.

Nenad

oooppps.
Meant to say yellow. I edited [it] and changed blue to yellow.

Thanks! Anyone else have a thought to this?