Thread: Honing Help

Hello Gentlemen,

I recently received my 3x8'' 4/8K NORTON and started honing my 5/8 Revisor and my 6/8 TI (half hollow SuperGnome). The first was honed by Lynn while the latter was purchased new. I was assisted by a 60/100X RS microscope which I found indispensable, especially when there is no experience in judging the state of the edge using the thumb test. I also used a HandAmerican 3x8'' flatbed leather hone with 0.5m diamond paste as well as Chromium Oxide.
Before the purchase of the NORTON, I used 1.0 and 0.5m diamond pastes but could not get an edge worth discussing. Maybe the amount of paste was insufficient for the flatbed's size. Then I got the NORTON and after a few lengthy sessions on it using a mixture of methods - pyramid or sets of 10 strokes - X patterned, angled or straight strokes - never mixed though - and constantly monitoring the edge with the scope, I finally managed to get edges that shaved my wiry beard with acceptable drag/pull, so much so that I could even shave against the grain without burn! The second, clean up pass is de rigeur for they are not sharp enough to get by with just one.

Before I pose the questions that arose out of the whole experience, I want to thank everybody, meisters or not, for they either directly or indirectly made it possible for me to get to this point having fun along the way!

My questions now:

1. I noticed that after a few hundred trips (!) on the HA leather hone - before the availability of the NORTON - the TI could hardly glide on the leather with the 0.5m diamond. It still doesn't. The Revisor doesn't exhibit such behavior. Has anyone run into this and how did he deal with it? As an indicator, there is lots of metal streaking on the leather.

2. Watching the edge under the RS scope at 60X, I noticed that either there are minute knicks on the edge or the edge is ever so slightly jagged. Still, I cannot detect any symptoms of overhoning and as I described above, the shaving is acceptable. Should the edge be perfectly straight? If so, what should I do to improve it? I have already tried the 0.5m diamond paste without noticeable result.

3. When using the X pattern (sounds mystic or even forbidden, doesn't it?) how much should the blade overhang the edge of the hone at the end of the stroke in terms of its length? I noticed that I may not keep the blade as flat as it should be kept when a significant portion of the blade overhangs - about 2/3 of its length. Is a tighter stroke sufficient? Any other pointers for keeping the blade flat?

Best wishes for a better year 2006,

Vasileios

Boy have I been there. I had a real difficult time getting the hang of keeping the blade flat. But the real trick is to relax the hand and let it flow. I also found that finding the right position of the hone was also important. I have it angled about 30 degrees on my work surface and it feels good. I can now take the blade to about an inch from the edge and keep the blade incontact with the hone all the way. The harder you try to keep it in contact with the hone, the greater difficulty you will have in accomplishing this task. It is a small motor skill activity rather than a large muscle movement. It takes practice to trust that your hands will do it just fine--relax and let them do it. Like a golf swing--the more you think about the mechanics of the swing the greater difficulty you will have hitting the ball to the target. Start slow then build speed.

jmsbcknr

Hey veaxaris,
I can only offer an opinion on your last question since I don’t use a microscope nor diamond paste I will say that there is no such thing as a "perfectly" straight edge... but If your noticing significant serrations I dare say your edge is not in as good a shape as it could be.

jmsbcknr, hit on the relative points in good fashion. In another thread, I recommended that if someone is having difficulty, and they symptoms seem to point to keeping the blade flat, To reduce their stroke patter so that no more than half the blade comes off the hone. This is only a recommendation to help someone get a "feel" for what their doing while learning... as your skills improve you can take the blade off to the tip if your hand is steady enough (mine is not). As Lynn and some other's have said, "Tis not an exact science".

jmsbcknr did mention an important factor that I think get's over looked too often; Comfort. You have to be comfortable with your position, your angle of attack on the hone, how your supporting the hone, how you hold the razor... and all that is a matter of personal preference.
Some seem to prefer to hone while standing, others while sitting; Some prefer to hone while holding the hone (my self included) while others prefer to rest the hone on a table/counter top; Some use an acute "X" pattern with short strokes while others prefer an more obtuse pattern with longer strokes... Your just going to have to find what works for you.
Once you've found your comfort zone, the steady hand will almost come instinctively. I’ve even gone so far as to cut my Norton down so lessen the weight and better the balance in my hand… so your just going to have to find what works for you.
However we’re all here to help you along, since we have all gone through the “its sharp", "wait… no it’s not….", "Oh it’s sharp again….", "Oooohhh no it’s not” phase’s haha…

Thank you for your suggestions. In retrospect, I realize that my honing position was not comfortable enough.

Vasileios

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

Boy have I been there. I had a real difficult time getting the hang of keeping the blade flat. But the real trick is to relax the hand and let it flow. I also found that finding the right position of the hone was also important. I have it angled about 30 degrees on my work surface and it feels good. I can now take the blade to about an inch from the edge and keep the blade incontact with the hone all the way. The harder you try to keep it in contact with the hone, the greater difficulty you will have in accomplishing this task. It is a small motor skill activity rather than a large muscle movement. It takes practice to trust that your hands will do it just fine--relax and let them do it. Like a golf swing--the more you think about the mechanics of the swing the greater difficulty you will have hitting the ball to the target. Start slow then build speed.

jmsbcknr

Dear sir

Can you show it perhaps with a video please?

It sounds like you are doing well! If it shave's you well then be happy, don't worry aboput what the edge looks like under the 60X scope. If you wish to continue experimenting with honing then I suggest purchasing some Ebay specials to practice on. It would be a shame to ruin your good edges.

Welcome to the group!