Thread: Honing a wedge

Lead with the heel, makes perfect sense now!

This weekend I was working on a nice 4/8 W&B wedge. No matter what I did I continued to struggle to get it ready to shave. One minute it was getting closer the next minute dull again. So I decided to try some electric tape on the back. I used three layers that ran from the point to the shank. All of a sudden it was sharp. Maybe the wedge was just not angled enough to get it to that point. Shaved with it this morning and it was fine.

jmsbcknr

When I first started reading about wedges, I thought you just hone it flat on either side until it's sharp. Now I'm wondering if the wedge is treated more like a knife when sharpening with a primary angle and finishing bevel. Is this right? I know that Rich was happy with Lynn's work on his wedge. Lynn, do you use a secondary angle for finishing the edge? I was looking over some other literature and it was talking about letting the strop hang through or a bit loose to allow for a slight rounding or secondary angle with a wedge blade, but not having had the chance to try a wedge yet myself, I'd like to know from you that do have or hone them.

I'm guessing the heel leading is to ensure the whole edge is on the stone without cutting into the tang.

Thanks

Originally Posted by dawill

Most of the straight razors I've seen on this site and in the forums are hollow ground (1/4, 1/2, or full) for the most part. I've seen very little discussion about wedge blades. I got my first W&B wedge yesterday and I'm still trying to get an idea on just how to hone it. I'm guessing it would work the same way on the Norton 4/8K but I'm not sure so I guess this is the part where I ask, "How the heck am I supposed to do this??"

A Real wedge has no hollow to the sides, so you're honing the entire side surface to create the edge. That's what makes it so tough to hone. You're taking down the entire surface.

My only real wedge is a W&B I got from Ebay. It needed a lot of honing, and I got so frustrated that I used a 1200 diamond hone to do most of the work. All I can tell you is that it's a lot more work than you can believe. Other than that I didn't do ahnything special.

Originally Posted by adjustme69

I usually hone a wedge at a 45 degree angle on the Norton when doing the X pattern vs. keeping the razor at 90 degrees or perpendicular across the stone. One problem with these is that many have been poorly ground and you have an uneven spine and edge which may need correction or re-grinding first. Lynn

Why do you do that? Do you lead with the heel?

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

This weekend I was working on a nice 4/8 W&B wedge. No matter what I did I continued to struggle to get it ready to shave. One minute it was getting closer the next minute dull again. So I decided to try some electric tape on the back. I used three layers that ran from the point to the shank. All of a sudden it was sharp. Maybe the wedge was just not angled enough to get it to that point. Shaved with it this morning and it was fine.

This would certainly make it easy to hon because you're no longer honing the entire side, but it seems to me that all those layers of tape would change your bevel angle too much.

I sure would like to try a wedge sometime. It sounds like honing a wedge would be very time consuming and probably wont get a much life out of the stone either. I havent worn out a stone on razors yet though.

I'm with Joe regarding the diamond hone. Always true and fast cutting, but it has to be followed with progressive grit stones or the scratches will take forever to grind and polish out to a razor edge. They obviously should only be used for truing an uneven spine/edge and removing large amounts of material for repairing a damaged edge.

Originally Posted by NavyBarber

I'm with Joe regarding the diamond hone. Always true and fast cutting, but it has to be followed with progressive grit stones or the scratches will take forever to grind and polish out to a razor edge. They obviously should only be used for truing an uneven spine/edge and removing large amounts of material for repairing a damaged edge.

When I use one of them I always tape the spine to avoid taking it down too much (and making it uneven). Also, since you're not taking down the spine, it helps you keep the edge paralle. Tings change very fast witht he diamond stone. I ususally check my work every 5-10 round trips. When I have the edge where I want it I remove the tape and hone to restore the bevel angle. Also, if the edge was taken down a little unevenly, the untouched spine will guide you in straightening it out. If I removed a lot from the edge, I'll do a few on the diamond. Otherwise I move on to the 4K.

The 1200 diamond doesn't scratch that badly, and the lines come out easily with the 4K. I check it with my microscope before I move on.

Got you beat. Ive been trying to hone it at a 45 degree angle. Even used those wedge paper clips. and doing the sharpie test to check my progress.Not going so well till now. Ahhh its about leading with the heel to be at the correct angle. Why didnt somebody just say that....