Thread: Honing a wedge

This weekend I was working on a nice 4/8 W&B wedge. No matter what I did I continued to struggle to get it ready to shave. One minute it was getting closer the next minute dull again. So I decided to try some electric tape on the back. I used three layers that ran from the point to the shank. All of a sudden it was sharp. Maybe the wedge was just not angled enough to get it to that point. Shaved with it this morning and it was fine.

jmsbcknr

When I first started reading about wedges, I thought you just hone it flat on either side until it's sharp. Now I'm wondering if the wedge is treated more like a knife when sharpening with a primary angle and finishing bevel. Is this right? I know that Rich was happy with Lynn's work on his wedge. Lynn, do you use a secondary angle for finishing the edge? I was looking over some other literature and it was talking about letting the strop hang through or a bit loose to allow for a slight rounding or secondary angle with a wedge blade, but not having had the chance to try a wedge yet myself, I'd like to know from you that do have or hone them.

I'm guessing the heel leading is to ensure the whole edge is on the stone without cutting into the tang.

Thanks

Originally Posted by jmsbcknr

This weekend I was working on a nice 4/8 W&B wedge. No matter what I did I continued to struggle to get it ready to shave. One minute it was getting closer the next minute dull again. So I decided to try some electric tape on the back. I used three layers that ran from the point to the shank. All of a sudden it was sharp. Maybe the wedge was just not angled enough to get it to that point. Shaved with it this morning and it was fine.

This would certainly make it easy to hon because you're no longer honing the entire side, but it seems to me that all those layers of tape would change your bevel angle too much.

I sure would like to try a wedge sometime. It sounds like honing a wedge would be very time consuming and probably wont get a much life out of the stone either. I havent worn out a stone on razors yet though.

I'm with Joe regarding the diamond hone. Always true and fast cutting, but it has to be followed with progressive grit stones or the scratches will take forever to grind and polish out to a razor edge. They obviously should only be used for truing an uneven spine/edge and removing large amounts of material for repairing a damaged edge.

Originally Posted by NavyBarber

I'm with Joe regarding the diamond hone. Always true and fast cutting, but it has to be followed with progressive grit stones or the scratches will take forever to grind and polish out to a razor edge. They obviously should only be used for truing an uneven spine/edge and removing large amounts of material for repairing a damaged edge.

When I use one of them I always tape the spine to avoid taking it down too much (and making it uneven). Also, since you're not taking down the spine, it helps you keep the edge paralle. Tings change very fast witht he diamond stone. I ususally check my work every 5-10 round trips. When I have the edge where I want it I remove the tape and hone to restore the bevel angle. Also, if the edge was taken down a little unevenly, the untouched spine will guide you in straightening it out. If I removed a lot from the edge, I'll do a few on the diamond. Otherwise I move on to the 4K.

The 1200 diamond doesn't scratch that badly, and the lines come out easily with the 4K. I check it with my microscope before I move on.