Thread: How to keep razor flat on hone?

check second video at 1,49 min . gl
http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...n-video-2.html

I have a slightly different issue that may be related. I've been honing the blade and the bevel is pretty even everywhere except one tiny 3/8" length area. It's right before the actual toe bevel, cause the toe bevel is even with the rest of the razor. I've been trying to even this spot out and no matter what I do (tape around it, hone only that spot with light or heavy pressure directly on that part of the spine), it just will not even out with the rest of the razor.
I'm wondering what I can do to fix this problem.
Thanks in advance

If that spot is getting sharp and there is no frown, than the amount of hone wear does not matter. Do you have pictures?

In order to even out a razor as you describe (if I am understanding you correctly) you would have to drastically reduce the spine/edge relationship and would ruin the razor IMO. This is the reason for the rolling x . You avoid wearing the spine and you sharpen the area that won't lay flat with the rest of the blade.

The spine isn't the issue with this one since I taped the spine. What I meant was that a tiny part of the bevel is smaller than the entire rest of the bevel. It doesn't feel any less sharp when I test it though, so maybe it's not a problem.

Originally Posted by heirkb

The spine isn't the issue with this one since I taped the spine. What I meant was that a tiny part of the bevel is smaller than the entire rest of the bevel. It doesn't feel any less sharp when I test it though, so maybe it's not a problem.

That is not a problem at all IME.

I've found if you want to take the guess work out of honing using magnification can tell you if the jobs getting done, typically x 100 IMHO.
edge bevel and spine geometry/ relationship can be critical especially on the less hollow grinds. Just because a bevel is uneven does not neccessarily mean it's not there.
I have had occassion to deliberatley flatten a spine (tape the edge) that was so warped tons of circles couldn't make things parallel, of course you do need the meat on the spine to decide if the trade off is worth it.
The spine may be straight, the grind may be at a slight angle to it in this area, although straight.
I don't know if any of this makes any sense, send it to an SRP honemiester for evaluation.

Originally Posted by heirkb

I've placed them on a 6x2 coticule, 10x1.5 escher and 8x3 naniwa lenght and widthwise. I have to really press down to make the razors lie flat.

So after I do the marker test, could you guys direct me to any resource for info on what honing techniques to apply? Like what rolling x is etc...Thanks

Pressure is almost always the wrong solution.

Try this to start on a flat wide hone.

Lay the blade as flat as it wants to be balanced on your finger
with no pressure give it one up and down stroke pair.

then lay the blade as flat as it wants to be balanced on your finger
but this time lift about a millimeter and give it an up/down stroke.

then lay the blade as flat as it wants to be balanced on your finger
and this last time let the balance point sage about one millimeter
and give it a stroke pair.

The idea is to learn to feel the toe, middle and heal of the blade on the
hone.

Lastly integrate all three starting with the balance that places the
heal of the razor on the hone first, then and about 1/3 of the way
across the hone adjust so the razor is equally balanced. Finally
lift that last little bit so the front of the razor touches the hone
at the end of the stroke. You can watch the water wave in front
of the razor wash from heal to toe as you do this. This will happen
naturally on a narrow hone with an X stroke.

Long term begin your honing session with ten remedial stroke pairs
on a flat wide hone with a balanced hold of the blade so in 20 or 40
sessions (about a year) the razor feels flat.

Since the goal is shaving (not flatness) this has the potential
of keeping the blade both sharp and flat.

With a light touch as long as the spine stays in contact with the hone
the bevel should stay correct.

I agree, just gotta do it though and get a feel, not to much thought.
Same applies for rolling X, practice makes perfect.

It's hard to say precisely but I think you'd want to bring lifting pressure with the pinkie and ring finger from underneath to the down-side scale to "lift" (not to actually lift but to direct the pressure the toe. Additionally I use my fore finger and thumb to subtly direct the stroke to the edge

If the toe and other sections are pushing water it doesn't really matter how the bevels, or sections compare in width so long as they make shave edge quality.

I showed up here with that misconception that the razor should or could be corrected with hone grinding. Errors from poor honing may be fixed, but those from smith and cutler cannot be, without resorting to their means.

Instead you follow their work with your hone. With a much limited selection I have never had a razor that required more than directed rolling pressure- no actual elevating