Thread: Honing a Curved Edge

I am a newbie and would love to join "Newbie Night," but I must go to class. So I will apologise in advance for not asking my question on vBChat.

I am having trouble honing one of my razors. It is a Sheffield razor with a slightly curved edge.

When I first got it it had a small moon nick in the edge of the blade.
Working the nick out I noticed the high carbon steel is a little less
forgiving than my other stainless razors. I actually felt the edge re-chip
while honing. Upon inspection I noticed a chip about the size of .125 of a
millimeter.

Needless to say, with some loving patience, and soft touch I got all the
nicks out of the edge. She stropped up enough to shave with, but not nearly
as sharp as my other main razor.

What tips do you have for honing and stropping this type of razor shape and steel?

Thanks all!
Mark.

You didn't say what kind of razor it is wedge, hollow ground etc but in general the techniques for stropping are the same with all razors. As far a honing goes if its hollow ground its pretty much the same with all razors. Just follow the pyramid scheme and use no pressure on the blade. If its stainless or lead hardened it may take a little longer. As far as the blade being curved is it curved from wear or is that the actual style? If its the style it still should make no difference. I assume when you honed out the nick you honed the entire blade back the same amount to retain the original shape of the blade.

Tell us more about the particular razor and its shape and post a photo if possible.

I think someone recently recommended a slow spin on the hone as it moved down the hone....am I mistaken.

I have done some of the 'spin' mentioned or scything action while honing, but for the curved blades, I find the straight rolling motion from heel to tip as the razor progresses along the hone do be adequate. Just be sure to be asconsistent as possible from moment to moment.

I also find that the 8000 side of the Norton cuts too fast in direct comparison to the 4000 and I suspect you'll find that difference more apparent with the carbon, non-SS steel. Try going a little lighter on the yellow side than the white and see if that benefits your edge.

X

Ah, so the scything action is really more of a spin. Thanks guys