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03-10-2010, 09:26 PM #21
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Thanked: 13245That is true Eric and sometimes I forget that many of the hints I give are geared around consistency and repetitive action, because I hone a lot of razors...
So add that grain of salt to my posts or grain of sugar depends on how you look at it... hehehe
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03-10-2010, 09:30 PM #22
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Thanked: 13245
I have used just about everything, the synthetic Naguras/Prep stones were my favorite when they were $8 now at over $16 I don't like them as much
I have tried the DMT's they work really, really, well but my "Slury stone" of choice now is a small 4x1x1 Translucent Arkansas I have been using it for about 8 months now...
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03-10-2010, 11:04 PM #23
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03-10-2010, 11:13 PM #24
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Thanked: 13245
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03-10-2010, 11:18 PM #25
That is true Glen and I agree with that too. What I mean is .... tell me that a 45 degree angle and a heel leading stroke or 40 circles works and I understand it and I try it. Tell me that this edge was done with x amount of microns and photographed at 300x and I start to get a headache. I don't have the technical mind to delve too deeply into the science but I'm more into the hands on approach. Both have their merits and I will get the hands on application from the guys who do have the technical approach when it eventually shakes out ..... If that makes any sense at all ?
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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03-10-2010, 11:31 PM #26
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Thanked: 1371For sure!
A better statement might have been, "I know what works best for me right now." The only way to know what works best is to compare it to other things that don't work as well.
I'm always trying something new. (read: sinking money into something new. )
*I think* the reason the coti's are working better for me is because they are narrower than the synthetics that I've used. That makes it easier for me as a honing newbie to keep the bevel and edge in contact with the stone on a wonky blade. (wonky is a great word that I picked up in the chat one night, I've been patiently waiting for an opportunity to use it)
Perhaps this is a band-aid for less than ideal technique, but it works for me.
I'm going to try some ripped synthetics to see if I can get better results from there.
What I meant by the above though, is that I don't know for 100% certain that it's the narrower stone that makes the difference. For all I know it could be that the spirit of the rock puts me into a zen-like state where I am able to hone better.
I doubt it though.
So... Is discussion important? Absolutely. It leads me to try new things. When I try new things I evaluate whether they work better or worse than the things I was doing before. (Also, I'm not resistant to switching things up on a case by case basis as needed... if there's one thing I've learned here, it's that there is not an absolute best way to do everything every time.)
Bottom line: keep the discussions coming. I like to think that I've come a long way in a relatively short time. That wouldn't have been possible without all the help I've gotten from everyone here.
Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.
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03-10-2010, 11:57 PM #27
better be careful. I happened upon a 6x 1.25 inch coti. I liked it narrow and at the time there was some talk of narrow stones here, so I figured i must be one of those narrow hones guys.
next thing I knew i was cutting one stone into two and others to match . Even if they ended up on the short side i still enjoy them. nice for maintenance: plenty of lap, rub and slurry stones.
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The Following User Says Thank You to kevint For This Useful Post:
JimmyHAD (03-11-2010)
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03-11-2010, 12:13 AM #28
That is a lovely photo Kevin.
As far as narrow hones, I like mine and all but I've gotten to where I seem to be able to do whatever I need to whether it is a 3" wide or a 1" wide. With some exceptions but more often than not.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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03-11-2010, 01:51 AM #29
I may be wrong but I think super fast cotis are also soft cotis.
I think it is inevitable you will wear out this stone using it as a bevel setter... but that's what happens with bevel setters simply because they do most of the work. As the others have suggested I would split the load up between synthetics & then use your coti as a final stage in the bevel setting. It's role is then changed to a more intermediate stage. You would still get that nice coti finish at less wear.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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03-11-2010, 06:09 AM #30
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Thanked: 286I have two coticules , one being very fast with slurry. I also have a 6x2 1200 dmt. I do use the coticule from start to finish. I will switch to my dmt 1200 if i feel it going to take a lot of slurry honing.One of the reasons being i like to check the edge regular when setting a bevel, the slurry seems to get in the way of that , i,m forever wiping the blade.I find these two hones are all i need . I am thinking of getting 6x2 dmt 600 for rebuilding bevels .
As wear my coticule is very fast it's not soft , it does;nt create auto slurry. i do find it does wear a little when used agressivly with slurry honing.I,m sure it will last me along time. It is my favourite and i have the same concern. I will use my dmt to save mine then finish with coticule using milky slurry to take care of the scratches from dmt then finish with water to polish on my coti.Last edited by gary haywood; 03-11-2010 at 06:16 AM.