Thread: Quick Question

If one were to reset a bevel on a razor that currently has a double bevel. Assuming the goal was to create a single bevel. Could one do it easily on a 3K stone or should one opt for a 1K stone or courser? The operative word here being easily (i.e. the right tool for the job).

Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm new to honing. It seems from what I've read I should be using about a 1K here, but I see other posts talking about setting a bevel on the 4K side of a 4K/8K combo Norton, so I need a little clarification.

Thanks.

I should probably clarify that this razor is otherwise in good condition. It's just a little dull. I thought I'd start over and reset the bevel, and while I'm at it, I thought I'd set it back to a single bevel.

Thanks.

I would go with the 1k. I've seen it said that a bevel can be set with a 4k but it takes longer. Since I have a 1k I figure I may as well take advantage of it.

It depends on the razor. Some razors with double bevels have the secondary bevel so minor that even with an 8K hone it doesn't take much work to remove it. Just be careful because some razors really need a double bevel. I found with my Zowada's when I removed the double bevel the razors became very prone to microchip so I wound up putting the double bevel back on.

do a marker test and start with your finer stone... you can always go more coarse if you need to

Stimpy-
Since I am an ignorant newb could you explain the marker test?-

I am guessing its sorta like blue printing and seeing what is taken away first and where. What do you use? A sharpie?

you goth it sharpie is the weapon of choise
color the bevel and you see where your stone work

Originally Posted by Oldfalguy

Stimpy-
Since I am an ignorant newb could you explain the marker test?-

I am guessing its sorta like blue printing and seeing what is taken away first and where. What do you use? A sharpie?

Take black magic marker and put a line of black on each side of the bevel down to the edge. Take the blade to your stone of choice and do two or three x strokes. Look at the bevel to see if all of the marker has been removed from the bevel with your strokes. If it has not all been removed you will have to adjust your stroke to compensate for anomalies in the blade/spine.

It may require a rolling x or a heel leading 45 degree angle.... or some variation other than a standard x stroke. Once you figure out what you need take a solvent (I use lighter fluid 'cause I have it ) and wipe the marker off of the blade. Hone the razor with the stroke you've found that works through the marker test. Strop and have a smooth shave.

Thanks Jimmy-

You ever have a problem with the hones getting a lot of black on them?

Its doesn't just wash off with a finger-

Best way to remove it?

Obviously I am doing something wrong but my blade is pretty darn sharp though i realize its not honemeister sharp and never will be-

I kinda figure if I can't do it myself I do not deserve it-

If Lynn himself did my razor i would just screw it up with the way I hone or strop- which would sorta be a blasphemy

Originally Posted by Oldfalguy

You ever have a problem with the hones getting a lot of black on them?

Its doesn't just wash off with a finger-

Best way to remove it?

Take a look at the webcast or the videos from the 2009 NC meeting - you'll see how black a naniwa hone can be from swarf and still work. As long as it's not glazed its fine. Lapping is the standard way to get a clean surface.

Originally Posted by Oldfalguy

Obviously I am doing something wrong but my blade is pretty darn sharp though i realize its not honemeister sharp and never will be-

I kinda figure if I can't do it myself I do not deserve it-

If Lynn himself did my razor i would just screw it up with the way I hone or strop- which would sorta be a blasphemy

Well, you're firmly set on your approach, so it's pointless of telling you what's the most effective way to learn. So just keep at it.

BTW it's preferable to start your own thread instead of hijacking somebody else's.