Thread: rolling x stroke on this one?

Jimmy i would be agree 100% with heel forward or 45 degree strokes.
i am against the rolling x and let me explain why.
Person need to use Rolling x most likely if blade do have warped places. In this situation you are unable to do straight x strokes or heel forward or 45 degree strokes.
if this blade warped i would never say Rolling x wasn't the answer.
Now about Rolling x strokes.
I don't think it is for everyone.
When you do rolling x you have to use same pressure all way from heel to the tip of the blade .+ you must have exact amount(number of circles) rolling motion from heel to the tip.+ you must to do same things another side of the blade.
if you miss any of those you will end up sharpening some part of blade more then other.
and that will be a problem to fix
This is why i am against Rolling x motion in any blade except warped ones.
hope this helps.

Originally Posted by greatgoogamooga

Restoring this one that I got off ebay. This is their pic, before I polished it. I'll need to start honing it next and I'm a newbie honer (is that a word?). Would you say this has enough of a smile that I need to use a rolling x stroke? Would this one be a challenge for a new hone....guy?

Thanks

Goog

What hones do you have?

In following this thread I was struck by the thought
that some of the differences of opinion may begin
with the differences in the hone on the bench.

A big long and wide superstone would invite
a very different stroke than a palm size
razor hone. A long narrow hone would
be different yet again.

Also aside from style the shape of a razor reflects
the tools of the time as much as the style. What
set of hones match the vintage of this style of
blade?

Looks like another nice razor!

Rolling X stroke MIGHT be the way to go, but put Sharpie on the bevel and run in across a hone a couple times doing it FLAT. If the marker is not being removed at the heel or toe, or both, then yes, rolling X would be a good bet.

+1 to Jimmy of course Beat me to the punch

Does look like a challenge for a new honer.
I don't have a crystal ball but I do see those dark spots on the edge as potential chips.
Also once you hone them out to good steel you may start honing on the rear stabiliser which being thicker can lift the heel accentuating the toe wear & giving you less keeness at the heel.
I usually grind part of the stabiliser & heel away on blades that are worn near flush like that.
Link here has some pics http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...rrecting+heels

Originally Posted by niftyshaving

What hones do you have?

I have a set of Nortons and a Chinese 12K.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Taking another look at the blade the dark spots towards the point don't look good. I wonder if those are chips or corrosion. Hope if it is the latter that there isn't deep pitting in there.

The blade finished it's tumble last night and has been rescaled. I will post a picture of it tonight.

Goog

The rust was primarily on the surface. You can see some pitting on the toe, by the spine that I left, to preserve the etching. Otherwise, the edge looks good. Right now, it's a butter knife, though.

Goog

Nice razor. If you're not confident in your ability honing maybe either send it out or put it away until you've gotten some practice on full hollows with less of a smile. Or, OTOH, if you feel like the challenge, have at it and just take your time and best of luck.

Looks like it cleaned up nicely

If you want a hand with the honing, let me know and next time I'm down your way we can get together again. I should have my new ebay special by then, as well as my new coticule

The only thing that I would add to the good advice already given here is to first lay the razor on your hone and see if it the blade rocks or if it will lay flat. If it lays flat, go ahead and set your bevel. If it rocks, then the advice you have been given will work. Sometimes these flattened spines will fool you and will actually lay flat from previous honing to get to shavable. Sometimes not. One thing to be careful of is when the flattening is not in the same locations on both sides of the razor. If that is the case, get ready for some steel removal to get to a decent bevel.

Have fun,

Lynn