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  1. #11
    I Bleed Slurry Disburden's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    It would be like me buying a set of golf clubs and wondering why I can't play like Tiger Woods.

    NO COMMENT!!!!

  2. #12
    Damn hedgehog Sailor's Avatar
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    +1 on everything that has been said here.
    Setting the bevel correctly is the one that takes most time. The rest comes quicker. Sometimes this all goes relatively fast, sometimes it takes a long time. Impossible to give any exact numbers here, not even average.
    One thing, in general, is true. Sheffield blades take longer time than those from Solingen or Sweden.
    'That is what i do. I drink and i know things'
    -Tyrion Lannister.

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  4. #13
    Cream Huffer
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    I remember asking a similar question when I started honing. It felt like I was spending forever on blades while other people were flying through them.

    When I hone, that is all I have planned for the evening. If I get through a blade, then I usually stop. Sometimes its quick, sometimes I don't finish a blade in an evening. Sometimes I stop due to frustration and try again later. Sometimes I get it right on the first try, sometimes there is some tuning that needs to be done.

    Sometimes I take a break from honing to let my arm hair re-grow.

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  6. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    There is the correct answer give that man a cigar LOL

    I can answer this part of it for you, as an average, ONCE the bevel is SET... 15 minutes...
    I say this grinning from ear to ear as the bevel I set on this ******* Greaves Wedge for the last 2 nights took 4 1/2 hours of work, including the dremel to fix the heel issue and re-buffing it to take off the ugly as sin bevel I had to do to even up all the old stuff ..... But after it passed the TNT and then popped arm hair at 1k, I was done 15 minutes later...
    And in this context you mean cutting the hairs with no blade contact with the skin?

  7. #15
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    I would suggest you to expect it to not take only some hours but
    several attempts!

    By that I mean you may be getting through your progression in 1-3hours
    depending on your level of skill and quickness of equippment
    but that you may not succeed at first attempt in creating a perfect shaving edge.
    Take your time in restoring (or resharpening) blades
    and expect some trial and error

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  9. #16
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basset View Post
    And in this context you mean cutting the hairs with no blade contact with the skin?
    I keep seeing this question, and I am realizing that like every other test, this one has gone much farther, and developed over the years into more than what it was originally designed for...

    The test was a go / no go test when it started, for a completed bevel set, that was it and it is still 99% accurate if used that way...

    As a qualitative test, it also works by testing the way the blade cuts hair as you progress through the grits/stages, of honing, but once you do that it, loses the accuracy of the test, and it becomes more like a HHT and more subjective to the individual type of hair...
    I can use it to gauge the "sharpness" as I progress, but I can't say it will work the same for you... See the slight difference there???

    If the edge cuts hair at skin level or above, along the entire edge then the "bevel" is set, that part is pretty darn accurate...

    Every other type of testing you do with it has to be developed for each individual...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 05-08-2010 at 07:48 AM.

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  11. #17
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    I agree with the above comments. The most time will be spent on correcting edge issues such as frowns, nicks and chips. Then setting the bevel up to a 1K-4K level. The least time is spent on finishing... 6K-8K-12K.
    Assuming no major edge work has to be done then about 1 hour for me simply because I use a very slow honing stroke and test frequently.
    I also spend an inordinate amount of time refreshing my hones.


    Just my $.02,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

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  13. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    I keep seeing this question, and I am realizing that like every other test, this one has gone much farther, and developed over the years into more than what it was originally designed for...

    The test was a go / no go test when it started, for a completed bevel set, that was it and it is still 99% accurate if used that way...

    As a qualitative test, it also works by testing the way the blade cuts hair as you progress through the grits/stages, of honing, but once you do that it, loses the accuracy of the test, and it becomes more like a HHT and more subjective to the individual type of hair...
    I can use it to gauge the "sharpness" as I progress, but I can't say it will work the same for you... See the slight difference there???

    If the edge cuts hair at skin level or above, along the entire edge then the "bevel" is set, that part is pretty darn accurate...

    Every other type of testing you do with it has to be developed for each individual...
    I hadn't seen the Q before. I was kind of looking for a yes or no, but the extra explanation's helpful.

    My practice, based upon prior posts and vids had been to move off 1K when I can shave arm hairs with blade-skin contact. (This is after passing TNT, marker test, examining evenness of bevel, etc.

    But the phrase, "pop hairs" has been used to refer to no skin contact. So I thought maybe you were advocating remaining on 1k beyond skin contact shaving to no-skin contact hair popping. That would be a change from what I'd read in the past in so many posts.

    I asked because we hear the experts all the time warn against overhoning, so I am reluctant to stay on 1k longer than is necessary. So if you were saying "stay on 1k until the hairs pop without skin contact," I wanted to know that. Sounds like you weren't.

  14. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basset View Post
    But the phrase, "pop hairs" has been used to refer to no skin contact. So I thought maybe you were advocating remaining on 1k beyond skin contact shaving to no-skin contact hair popping. That would be a change from what I'd read in the past in so many posts.

    I asked because we hear the experts all the time warn against overhoning, so I am reluctant to stay on 1k longer than is necessary. So if you were saying "stay on 1k until the hairs pop without skin contact," I wanted to know that. Sounds like you weren't.
    Not saying I'm an expert but I don't stay on a 1k until it will 'pop hairs'. Once I get the TNT I continue a bit and then try shaving a bit of hair on the skin or if I want to conserve hair the TPT. I don't fool with popping hair until the sharpening phase. I've read of people who perform HHT off of the 1k but I've never had any luck with that and don't even bother with it anymore. I do use that after I'm done honing but I've found HHT is not a prerequisite for a close and smooth shave. YMMV.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  15. #20
    Member garciagj's Avatar
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    I agree with all the pros here... but on the other hand, since I'm in a honing learning curve, I really enjoy every single minute I spend restoring my blades (in some cases they have been more like a challenge), and of course the honing phase is just the final stage on getting my creations ready to face the next challenge: my whiskers!!! Thanks for the great advices guys

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